Your most need-to-know question answered, in full (ofc, because we love to talk).
It makes sense to think oats aren’t gluten free, given the way they are processed. But here's the truth: oats are naturally gluten free.
We've been asked a lot if our latest gel cleanser with hydrolysed oat protein is gluten free. The short answer is yes, it is confirmed by our ingredient supplier as gluten free (yay!). We wanted to take the opportunity to dive into this deeper, so let's take a closer look at oat protein, plus the link between gluten free and cosmetics while we're at it.
Oat protein is a “by-product of the oat flour fractionation process into oat bran, oat starch and β-glucan.” A natural ingredient, tick. We like it already and we’ve only just been introduced - we're off to a good start!
A super gentle skincare ingredient, oat protein is used to soften, condition and moisturise your skin. “The numerous nutritious ingredients contained in oats strengthen the skin’s barrier, sooth and moisturize skin. Products with oats are protective against external influence and are very effective moisturizers.” It helps to strengthen your skin’s outer barrier, retaining skin moisture and hydration. It has anti-inflammatory properties and reduces itchiness, making it perfect for sensitive skin. “Oat is a helpful active ingredient for symptoms of very dry skin, like roughness and scalling.”
Oat protein is the ideal ingredient for a gel cleanser, as it gives back skin-loving goodness to your skin, rather than leaving it feeling stripped and tight (which can often happen with gel cleansers, FYI). Oat protein provides these benefits as it creates a layer on the skin which prevents water loss. We didn't just rely on this hero ingredient for super hydrated skin either; we also included glycerin, aloe vera and cocamidopropyl betaine, a super gentle but effective cleansing surfactant.
Even though oats are naturally gluten free, it all depends on the supplier of the oat protein and how it is processed. This means that some are gluten free (AKA, Tailor Gel Cleanse) and some are not - so it’s an important question to ask, if it’s not stated otherwise. Because as you know, you can’t rely on brands to be completely transparent (note: Tailor is the exception, ofc).
So you can feel empowered to make the right choices for your skin, let's take a dive into gluten in skincare.
Let's cut to the chase with the juiciest question of all. The short answer, no, as according to Coeliac New Zealand, “Gluten can’t cause damage to the small intestine when it’s absorbed through the skin.” Therefore, if you are gluten free, it is safe to use gluten in cosmetics aka skincare, if they’re applied topically to your skin, nails or hair etc.
*Even though we’ve come to the conclusion that gluten can’t be absorbed through the skin, if you are coeliac, we’d always recommend patch test first. The best place to do this is on the inside of your upper arm, as this skin is most sensitive.
Although gluten can’t be absorbed through the skin, aka safe to use if you’re gluten free, can it still cause skin irritation? According to Coeliac New Zealand, it really depends on the person, but “some people with coeliac disease report skin reactions to topically applied product.” Good thing Tailor Gel Cleanse is gluten free, so you don’t have to worry about this with our gel cleanser (wink)! However, they also stated “this is not thought to be related to coeliac disease specifically.” Therefore, the moral of the story is if you experience skin irritations to cosmetic products, consult your GP as you may have skin sensitivities to other ingredients within the product, or a wheat allergy.
Transparency. It’s not something many brands are good at doing. So, here’s what to look out for on your cosmetic labels, regarding gluten.
All cosmetics in New Zealand must comply with the Cosmetic Product Group Standard 2006, published by the Environment Protection Authority. Celiac New Zealand mentioned, “according to this standard, allergens such as gluten don’t need to be declared on product labels, but a full list of ingredients must be present.” This doesn’t make it easy, does it? Don't stress, we can identify these ingredients on the list ourselves. Here are the wheat, oat, barley and rye ingredients which are the gluten-containing cereals found in cosmetics, to look out for:
*Cosmetic ingredients are often listed in Latin, so here is what to look for in your ingredient list:
However, they often won’t declare where they’ve sourced the ingredient, so the best way to find out whether the ingredient included is gluten-free is to contact the brand directly.
That’s enough education for our brains, talk soon!
Tailor 💙
References:
Kumar, L., Sehrawat, R., & Kong , Y. (2021). Oat proteins: A perspective on functional properties. LWT, Volume 152. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.lwt.2021.112307
Brkić, L. (2023, November 26). Food Ingredients in Skin Care and Their Benefits. Nutramedic & Cosmetics. https://nmc-magazine.com/food-ingredients-in-skin-care-and-their-benefits/
McKenzie, E. (n.d.). Coeliac disease and cosmetics. https://coeliac.org.nz/coeliac-disease-and-cosmetics/
]]>Spoiler alert: it’s both!
Your skin needs both hydration and moisturisation for your skin’s health - because we all want healthy skin, and we’re all about health and wellbeing here at Tailor.
Because there is one, and it’s big. Let’s get all our juicy knowledge out for you, shall we?
Hydrating ingredients in skincare products are called Humectants and they work by attracting water into itself (AKA to the outermost layer of the skin where it is sitting). "Humectants are ingredients that attract and bind water. In skin care, they draw water from the deeper layers of the skin to the outermost layer...In personal care products, they help hydrate the skin..." Whereas moisturising ingredients, which are your emollients and occlusives, they create a physical barrier on top of the skin to prevent water from escaping. “Emollients are mostly made up of lipids and their components, which...enhance skin hydration, smoothness, softness, flexibility. Occlusives are other type of moisturizer which is mostly oil based and serve the function of maintaining skin water content by creating a hydrophobic barrier over the skin and blocking trans-epidermal water loss.”
We have three favourite natural humectants that we’ve incorporated into our award-winning formulations to serve this function. Hyaluronic Acid, this actively draws in up to 1000x its weight in water to plump and minimise fine lines. “The properties of HA include the ability…to bind up to one thousand times its own weight of water. HA forms a three-dimensional macromolecular mesh in water that may also act to separate inactivating substances from surfactant by acting as a size-discriminating filter.” This is found in Tailor Hydrate and Tailor Awaken. Learn more about Hyaluronic Acid in our blog here. Glycerin, this prevents water loss in your skin to keep it hydrated and moisturised for longer and is sourced from organic coconut oil. “Glycerin…induced a long-lasting (up to 24 hours) hydrating and moisturizing effect, improving at the same time the skin barrier function in healthy women.” This is found in Tailor Renew, Tailor Polish, Tailor Moisture, Tailor Awaken, Tailor Restore and Tailor Gel Cleanse. Polysaccharides, this draws water in to hydrate and reduce fine lines with continued use. “Enhanced Hydrate Inhibition by Plant-Based Polysaccharides…”, the title of a journal article.” This is found in Tailor Moisture, Tailor Renew, Tailor Polish, Tailor Awaken and Tailor Restore. All three humectants are multi-purpose and used across our range.
We have many favourite natural emollients and occlusives that we’ve also incorporated into our tailored formulations to provide this function. Nourishing plant oils include Olive Squalane, Hemp Seed Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil, Jojoba Seed Oil. These deeply nourish and moisturise the skin, e.g., “Jojoba oil, is commonly used on skin, was added to be a skin nourishing agent.”
Nourishing waxes like Shea Butter, “…shea butter can directly act by nourishing…” As well as, a natural alternative to silicone, Milk thistle Esther AKA silybum marianum ethyl ester, which has active ingredient silymarin in it, and “cosmetic products containing silymarin to treat rosacea and to maintain the skin moist…” Learn more about Milk thistle Esther in our blog here.
Dehydrated skin / If you have dehydrated skin, this means your skin lacks water. Your skin will look dull and feel tight. You need humectants.
Dry skin / If you have dry skin, this means your skin lacks oils. Your skin will look flaky, patchy and sometimes red. You need occlusives & emollients.
Now you know what the difference is, our tailored ingredients for hydration and moisturisation, and what your skin needs - we can put this need to know info into gear and create an individual routine for each.
Cleanser: Tailor Gel Cleanse
/ Contains Glycerin
Serum: Tailor Hydrate
/ Contains 2% Hyaluronic Acid
Moisturiser: Tailor Moisture
/ Contains 2% Polysaccharides
Cleanser: Tailor Oil Cleanse
/ Contains 100% cold pressed oils
Serum: Tailor Illume
/ Contains Tailor Milk thistle Ester
/ Contains plant oils such as hemp seed & squalane
Moisturiser: Tailor Restore
/ Contains Red Seaweed
/ Contains plant oils + butters like shea butter, squalane, grape seed oil
Hydration Hydrating ingredients in skincare products are called Humectants and they work by attracting water into itself (AKA to the outermost layer of the skin where it is sitting). |
Moisturisation Moisturising ingredients, your emollients and occlusives create a physical barrier on top of the skin to prevent water from escaping. |
Tailored ingredients Our fave natural humectants: |
Tailored ingredients Our fave natural emollients + occlusives: |
Skin types Dehydrated Skin: |
Skin types Dry Skin: |
Product recommendations Cleanser: Gel Cleanse Serum: Hydrate Moisturiser: Moisture |
Product recommendations Cleanser: Oil Cleanse Serum: Illume Moisturiser: Restore |
References:
West, M. (2022, March 31). What are humectants, and what do they do? Medical News Today. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/humectant
Purnamawati S, Indrastuti N, Danarti R, Saefudin T. The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review. Clin Med Res. 2017 Dec;15(3-4):75-87. doi: 10.3121/cmr.2017.1363. Epub 2017 Dec 11. PMID: 29229630; PMCID: PMC5849435.
Lu, K., Goerke, J., Clements, J. et al. Hyaluronan Decreases Surfactant Inactivation In Vitro. Pediatr Res 57, 237–241 (2005). https://doi.org/10.1203/01.PDR.0000150726.75308.22
Massimo Milani & Adele Sparavigna (2017) The 24-hour skin hydration and barrier function effects of a hyaluronic 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract moisturizing fluid: an intra-subject, randomized, assessor-blinded study, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 10:, 311-315, DOI: 10.2147/CCID.S144180
Energy Fuels 2022, 36, 13, 6974–6988
Publication Date:June 16, 2022
https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.energyfuels.2c01062
Thisavakom, Charus; Kajsongkarm, Tanwarat; Tipapongpagapun, Yutthana; and Banchonglikitkul, Chuleratana (2012) "PREPARATION OF ANTI-HYPERTROPHIC CREAM FROM LICORICE EXTRACT," The Thai Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences: Vol. 36: Iss. 0, Article 40. Available at: https://digital.car.chula.ac.th/tjps/vol36/iss0/40
Elias, M., & Saussey, M. (2013). ‘The Gift that Keeps on Giving’: Unveiling the Paradoxes of Fair Trade Shea Butter. Wiley. https://doi.org/10.1111/soru.12007
Milića , N., Milošević , N., Suvajdžića , L., Žarkovb , M., & Abenavolic, L. (2013). New Therapeutic Potentials of Milk Thistle (Silybum marianum). Natural Product Communications. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/1934578X1300801236
]]>For the rest of you wanting to continue, let’s break down each ingredient and why we included them in our formulation for Gel Cleanse - I know you’re curious! Each ingredient has been selected for its multi-purpose nature to be tailored to multiple skin types and concerns, has an impact on your skin even with limited exposure as well as utilising existing Tailor ingredients for our commitment to sustainability.
We have ordered our ingredients in order from highest % to lowest % (as per the INCI list requirements). Did you know that anything under 1% can be ordered in any way you like which often means a brand might list an active that they want to market higher up the INCI list to make it appear like there is more in the formulation? “After the 1% mark, companies can list ingredients in any order they like. They typically move good sounding ingredients up and not-so-good sounding ingredients down, but that is a legal and ok thing to do.” We don’t do that here, all of our product INCI’s are listed in exact order of highest to lowest. We’re transparent, we don’t do green-washing. Now let’s get into it.
Aqua (Water) / [say it like] a•kwuh
The bulk of Gel Cleanse’s formulation. Water is used as the base of many skincare products as a solvent, this is because it is what the other ingredients in the formulation dissolve into to create the formula, aka the end result.
Sodium Coco-Sulfate / [say it like] sow•dee•uhm kow•kow•soul•fate
Sodium coco-sulfate is a plant-based derived, mild anionic surfactant. It’s used to gently cleanse and is the reason behind the foam. “Sodium coco sulphate makes a gentle foam that effectively dissolves grease and dirt.” It is partially derived from the fatty acids of coconut and water however it cannot be determined to be a 100% natural material. We opted to use this material in order to achieve the goals of Gel Cleanse, to gently and effectively cleanse the skin.
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice / [say it like] aah•low•veer•ah
A summer-essential ingredient in Gel Cleanse and our hero (& multi-purpose). Known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, we chose this as a hero in this formulation because it reduces redness and irritation while it boosts your skin's glow. But it doesn’t stop there, it deeply hydrates and moisturises the skin too. An ingredient that gives back to your skin in a cleanser? Unheard of, but not with Tailor.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine / [say it like] cok•a•mid•o•pro•pill•bee•tain
A multi-purpose ingredient in Gel Cleanse. This ingredient will make this cleanser’s formulation feel smooth to apply. It’s also multi-purpose as it doubles as a water soluble surfactant, derived from coconut oil. Being a water soluble surfactant, it also helps create foamy bubbles - which we love!
Glycerin / [say it like] gli•suh•ruhn
A humectant in Gel Cleanse. Our Glycerin is sourced from organic coconut oil (easy to say, harder to do). A humectant prevents water loss in your skin to keep it hydrated and moisturised for longer - goodbye dull skin and hello to soft and hydrated skin.
Coco-Glucoside / [say it like] co•co•glue•ko•side
Lauryl Glucoside / [say it like] law•rull•glue•ko•side
Glucosides in Gel Cleanse, derived from glucose. Gel Cleanse contains two naturally-derived glucosides, coco-glucoside and lauryl glucoside. They’re used to gently cleanse and moisturise. A whole lot of skin loving naturalness here.
Sodium Chloride / [say it like] sow•dee•uhm klaw•ride
Thickener / binder in Gel Cleanse. Sodium chloride is better known as table salt, but in skincare aka Gel Cleanse, it’s used to help bind and thicken skincare - you know that luxurious gel texture, yes you know the one. Despite its drying abilities, the low amounts used in skincare means it won’t dehydrate your skin. Transparent, right.
Benzyl Alcohol / [say it like] ben•zile al•kuh•hol
A multi-purpose ingredient in Gel Cleanse and our chosen preservative system in our skincare range. Benzyl alcohol is a powerful broad-spectrum antibacterial preservative used to stabilise skincare. It is multi-purpose as it also helps to dissolve other ingredients and decreases the viscosity (thickness) of formulas so they flow more easily - you know that nice free-flow of gel you get when you squeeze the tube.
Sodium Phytate / [say it like] sow•dee•uhm•feye•tayt
A multi-purpose ingredient in Gel Cleanse. This is a stabilising ingredient, which is a texture enhancer to make formulas feel smooth to apply, and it is also a preservative which keeps skincare safe and free from microbes (aka nasties)
Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Ethyl Ester / [say it like] milk•thi•sl•eh•stir
Milk thistle ester is a natural alternative to silicone. It locks in moisture and protects your skin from environmental stressors and pollution. But it doesn’t stop there, it also has antioxidant and calming effects, and helps protect your skin from UV light exposure. Yes you don’t get away with it that easily, you still need to apply sunscreen - as amazing as this ingredient is, it doesn’t replace it.
Dehydroacetic Acid / [say it like] dee•high•jrow•seat•ick•acid
A mix and match ingredient in Gel Cleanse. Dehydroacetic acid is another preservative used in skincare aka Gel Cleanse. It has potent antifungal to keep skincare safe to use for longer - because we all love a long shelf life. When mixed with Benzyl Alcohol they create a broad-spectrum preservative against yeasts, moulds and funguses. A mix and match moment right here, a true match for Tailor. Our preservative system is made with synthetic materials that have been ECOCERT certified to be used in natural skincare. “The certifications issued by Ecocert guarantee and highlight the best environmentally friendly and socially conscious practices.”
Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract / [say it like] green•tee
Green tea extract is a potent antioxidant that soothes and protects skin. It’s like your skin’s assistant bodyguard, because we know who your head bodyguard is. It also has the ability to reduce sebum, great for breakout and oily prone skin types.
Hydrolyzed Oat Protein / [say it like] owt•prow•teen
A gentle ingredient in Gel Cleanse. Oat Protein is used to soften, condition and moisturise your skin. It helps your skin better retain moisture and hydration. Who would’ve thought oats would have such a big role in skincare.
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil / [say it like] kow•kuh•nuht oil
An ultra-conditioning ingredient in Gel Cleanse but only at a very small %. Coconut oil is used as an emollient and is very moisturising for your skin. A dry skin must-have, FYI.
So as you can see we’ve got quite the line up of skin-loving ingredients, but it’s a concise list. Because, concise skincare is sustainable skincare. So, wasn’t that a simple, short list of ingredients - don’t you love it when ingredients are explained to you, so you know what you’re actually applying to your face, because same. Thanks, Tailor.
Tailor’s References
Inci Decoder (n.d.). How to read an ingredient list? https://incidecoder.com/ingredient-lists
Special Chem (n.d.). SODIUM COCO-SULFATE. https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/inci-ingredients/sodium-coco-sulfate
Ecocert (n.d.). Our certifications: Assurance for your commitments. https://www.ecocert.com/en/certification
]]>Now for a bit of science chat, because without results - how can we know for sure? Let’s learn about a cleanser’s role, “skin cleansers are surface—active substances (i.e. emulsifiers/detergents/surfactants/soaps) that lower the surface tension on the skin and remove dirt, sebum, oil from cosmetic products, microorganisms, and exfoliated corneum cells in an emulsified form.” Let’s break this down a little. Surface tension basically the ability for something to float on the skin and not be absorbed, so you can imagine to reap the benefits of a cleanser in a short contact time, you want to lower the chance of this. By lowering this, it allows for makeup, oils and daily grime to be removed from the skin, leaving it nice and clean. “An ideal cleanser should do all these without damaging or irritating the skin, on the contrary it should try to keep the skin surface moist.” Because, as we’re removing oils from our skin, it’s important to give back to our skin, ensuring it’s not left feeling stripped and tight (as some cleansers do).
Cleansers are a wash off product, which means short contact time between the cleanser and your skin, you want to make sure the ingredients in a cleanser have an instant effect on your skin - to ensure you’re giving back to your skin and not just stripping it. Some skincare ingredients take time to absorb in your skin, which means they need to be left on the skin - making them unsuitable for a cleanser (like Niacinamide - but we’ll get into that later). Time to back this up. “Cleansers should remain on the skin for as short a period as possible to minimize stratum corneum protein damage…” Before I jump into this, the stratum corneum is the outer most layer of the top layer of your skin. Ok, let’s jump in. This short contact doesn’t allow enough time for particular ingredients to penetrate and remain in the skin. Therefore, when formulating Gel Cleanse, we wanted to make sure the ingredients we used provided instant benefits to the skin, to do this we needed to make sure they were fast absorbing.
Let’s look into an example of a super desirable skincare ingredient by us skin lovers, that needs to be left on the skin - Niacinamide. Here’s why: this antioxidant ingredient is used for its anti-aging and anti-breakout powers, but the only catch is it needs to be left on the skin to unlock these benefits (definitely longer than the 1 minute of cleansing time.) “To reap the most skincare benefits, apply niacinamide topically in the form of a cream, lotion, or serum—anything that will stay in contact with your skin for plenty of time, unlike a facial cleanser that goes on and off quickly…” I know what you’re thinking, why would it be in cleansers then. As I mentioned above, marketing fluff. So, as cleansers are wash off products, the functionality of this ingredient, doesn’t match a cleanser’s purpose. If you are seeking these benefits of Niacinamide, Tailor Hydrate contains 4% - making it the ideal way to incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine - because it’s not a wash-off product.
As I’ve previously talked about, when we looked into the hero ingredients for Gel Cleanse, we were on the lookout for ingredients with immediate effect on the skin, to suit the functionality of a cleanser. The ingredients that stood out:
Aloe Vera has an instant effect on your skin, remember that instant soothing feeling you experience when you use it on sunburn (ahhhh), this is similar. It calms and soothes redness and irritation in your skin, while deeply hydrating it (doesn’t that take you back). “This is because it possesses implausible moisturising properties. It improves the ability of skin to hydrate itself.” Meanwhile, “the anti-inflammatory action of Aloe vera gel not only relieves from pain and discomfort, but also accelerates the healing process.” This is suited to a wash off product because Aloe Vera has “many natural constituents that are easily absorbed by the skin keeping it smooth and healthy..."
Same can be said for Oat Protein, it’s instant and it helps to strengthen your skin's outer barrier, retain your skin’s moisture, and reduce itchiness in your skin - thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties (aka liquid gold). A study conducted by An Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology states “the results suggest that oatmeal possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.”
Other key supporting ingredients include Green Tea Extract which also has an instant effect to visibly brighten your skin, reduces hyper-pigmentation in your skin - also with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which soothe and protect your skin. “When applied topically, green tea polyphenols…prevent other damaging effects of UV light such as the sunburn response, immunosuppression, and photoaging of the skin.” And that’s just a supporting ingredient, wow. The two other key supporting ingredients which are used within our existing range, are Glycerin to help bind water to the skin leaving your skin hydrating and soft, and Milk Thistle a natural alternative to silicone which helps strengthen your skin’s barrier. You know what I’m going to say here, multi-purpose at it’s finest.
I know, all in one 125ml tube of Gel Cleanse. Oh and it’s only $49.50.
So as you can tell, we aren’t about marketing fluff going down the drain, because that’s just unnecessary waste and spending - and we don’t want this, remember we’re on a sustainability journey and want our products to actually work for you, at a competitive price, might we say. This means we wanted to provide a gel cleanser, which will give you all the benefits possible, before it’s washed away.
References
Mukhopadhyay, P. (2011). CLEANSERS AND THEIR ROLE IN VARIOUS DERMATOLOGICAL DISORDERS. Indian Journal of Dermatology. https://www.e-ijd.org/article.asp?issn=0019-5154;year=2011;volume=56;issue=1;spage=2;epage=6;aulast=Mukhopadhyay
Draelos, Z. D. (2015). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. https://doi.org/https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.12469
VALENTI, L. (2021, April 4). Meet niacinamide, skincare’s new powerhouse ingredient. Vogue India.https://www.vogue.in/beauty/content/everything-you-need-to-know-about-niacinamide-skincares-new-powerhouse-ingredient
Asthana, N., Pal, K., Aljabali, A. A., Tambuwala, M. M., Gomes de Souza, F., & Pandey, K. (2021). Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) mixed green–clay and aloe vera based polymeric membrane optimization: Peel-off mask formulation for skin care cosmeceuticals in green nanotechnology. Journal of Molecular Structure. https://doi.org/https://linkinghub.elsevier.com/retrieve/pii/S0022286020319062
Saleem, A., Naureen, I., Naeem, M., Murad, H. S., Maqsood, S., & Tasleem, G. (2020). Aloe Vera Gel Effect on Skin and Pharmacological Properties. Scholars International Journal of Anatomy and Physiology. https://doi.org/10.36348/sijap.2022.v05i01.001
Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Kazerouni, A., & Feily, A. (2012). Oatmeal in dermatology: A brief review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology. https://doi.org/10.4103/0378-6323.93629
Heinrich , U., Moore , C. E., De Spirt, S., Tronnier, H., & Stahl, W. (2011). Green Tea Polyphenols Provide Photoprotection, Increase Microcirculation, and Modulate Skin Properties of Women. The Journal of Nutrition. https://doi.org/10.3945/jn.110.136465
]]>So, before we jump into the why, what type of cleansers are best used to double cleanse? I’m glad you asked. According to Dr Wu at Cleveland Clinic, “double cleansing means cleansing your face twice, first with an oil-based product and then followed by a water-based cleanser…” And Tailor has got both of these for you. But, why do I need to double cleanse?
First Cleanse:
1. The first cleanse to your skin, usually from an oil-based cleanser. With oils, the cleaning agent dissolves like, so this will help to dissolve oil-based impurities like makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum - ready for your Tailor Towel to swoop in and wipe away. Its nutritious oils will assist in balancing your natural oil production in your skin, meanwhile not disturbing your skin’s PH or stripping your skin’s acid mantle. You thought that was it? Not yet, these nutritious oils will replenish your skin with clean and fresh oils - leaving your skin nourished and healthy.
Second Cleanse:
2. The second cleanse to your skin, typically from using a water-based cleanser. In this case, the cleaning agent is surfactants, these assist in breaking down and combining the oils and impurities on your skin - an excellent deeper cleanse into your pores (we’re talking squeaky clean). Be mindful and choose a gel cleanser with a gentle surfactant, otherwise if it’s too harsh it will strip your skin - leaving it tight, dry and your skin barrier compromised (we’re talking ultimate irritation). Our Tailor Gel Cleanse is formulated with Cocomidopropyl Betaine (CAB) as our surfactant, as it’s derived from coconut - super gentle with effective cleansing properties. This surfactant will gather around and encapsulate the oils and impurities - allowing it to be easily lift off your skin’s surface. It doesn’t just stop there, it’s an amphoteric surfactant - in other words it’s multi-purpose and can act as an acid or a base, which means less irritation to your skin. You’re welcome.
Together, this means you’re covering all bases two, which will prevent clogged pores and therefore the likelihood of breakouts. Then, you’ll be all ready with a clean fresh face to apply your favourite serums and moisturisers - which will help this to penetrate into your skin more effectively. “Double cleansing allows for better outcomes of other ingredients."
How to double cleanse:
Now for the how-to.
Step 1 / Oil-Based Cleanser
Step 2 / Water-Based Cleanser
For best results, we’d recommend using an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser. But, you don’t need two different types of cleansers to double cleanse - well not if you’re using Tailor, because our skincare is multi-purpose. With Tailor Oil Cleanse you can do a first cleanse and wipe away with your Tailor Towel, and then if you want a double cleanse you can go back in and repeat this for a second cleanse. With Tailor Gel Cleanse, because it is a gel to foam cleanser, the gel acts as a first cleanse for your skin and then if you’d like a double cleanse, you can add water to it and lather it into a foam, providing a second cleanse. We’ve formulated both Tailor cleansers to be tailored to you and fit into your routine, not the other way around. It’s completely your choice and guess what, we encourage you to do it your way by providing you with multi-purpose skincare.
You can read the Tailor team’s best kept cleansing tips here.
I’m sure you’ve picked up on this by now, but double cleansing is a simple yet effective method to achieve clean, fresh and glowy skin with a healthier appearance. This would be incorporated into your skincare routine as the first step - to deep cleanse, unclog pores and enhance product absorption, ready for the remainder of your skincare routine. A skincare journey is a journey - so keep up with it and you’ll thank yourself in the long run for taking extra care of your skin.
P.S. Tailor Oil Cleanse is our best seller, and Tailor Gel Cleanse is our newest product - but quickly becoming our best seller (emphasis on flying off the shelves).
References:
(2022, June 22). Double Cleansing Method Explained: Should You Try It? Cleveland Clinic. https://health.clevelandclinic.org/double-cleansing-explained/#:~:text=%E2%80%9CDouble%20cleansing%20means%20cleansing%20your,removing%20waterproof%20makeup%20and%20sunscreen.
(2021, April 6). Double cleansing for optimum skin health. Skin Link Consulting. https://skinlinkconsulting.com/2021/04/double-cleansing-for-optimum-skinhealth/
]]>Let’s get this started with you, Kaity. Would you say cleansing a must in your morning and evening routine? If so, give us the goss?
Kaity / “Absolutely, I always start with cleansing when it comes to skincare - otherwise it feels like my moisturiser is locking dirt into my skin! I have more time in the mornings, so I love to deeply cleanse with Oil Cleanse. At night, I do a quick cleanse with Gel Cleanse in the shower.”
Oh my gosh, relatable! Ok now it’s my turn, for me…
Anna / “Cleansing is a must in my routine, morning and night for one very important reason, to keep my skin clean - you don't necessarily think about it, but your skin can get extremely dirty, those poor pores can get very clogged up with makeup, dirt, oils and daily grime. So to me, it's part of my personal hygiene routine.”
Ok, Stacey you’re up!
Stacey / “I'm all about a night time cleanse, just like my showers! My skin type is dry and sensitive, what I look for in my daily cleansing routine is using products that cleanse away the day's build up and give back to my skin. If I was to over cleanse my skin, it would most likely disrupt my skin's natural oil production causing an underproduction of oil (which my skin already lacks being dry).”
Oh, that’s a great tip for dry skin - readers listen up there! And lastly, Kate - what’s your verdict?
Kate / “Absolutely a must, I feel like cleanser is the skincare equivalent of a cold shower in the morning, it wakes me up and I feel refreshed and ready to start the day. Then at night, its a must to wash the day away and most importantly, wash my makeup away. It’s also the first step to my wind-down routine, and gets me ready to relax.”
This is so cool, it’s become something more than just a cleanser, it’s become part of starting your day with a clear mind.
Oh this is my favourite question, so let’s start with me. Can you share a cleansing trick?
Anna / “The best trick of all time. Cleansing in the shower is the best thing. Don't knock it till you try it. It's convenient, it's a time saver and it just elevates the post-shower clean and fresh feeling. It's all done in one big swoop.”
We love when something can do it all (aka multi-purpose). Ok, enough from me. What’s your trick Stacey?
Stacey / “I am a night-time shower so I love to do my cleansing in the shower. Oil Cleanse is a glass bottle and definitely don't want to let that slip out my hands in the shower! So I turn the shower on, apply 4 pumps to my hands, apply to my dry face and massage. Then step into the shower to wash off and follow on with Gel Cleanse. I keep Gel Cleanse and Polish on my shower shelf as they are in their handy tubes!”
Oh, that’s such a goodie - noted! And you Kate?
Kate / “My main trick is a double cleanse, I like to use an oil cleanser to break down any dirt and makeup, then a gel cleanser to really get in there and re-balance my face before the rest of my serums and moisturisers.”
YES, if you haven’t tried double cleansing. Do yourself a favour, try it. Ok, you’re up Kaity!
Kaity / “For oily/combo/breakout prone skin, try following up Oil Cleanse with a double cleanse of Gel Cleanse to remove any excess oils.”
This is liquid gold if this is your skin type. Is it just me, or does anything else notice this pattern here, mix and matching Tailor products - trick 101.
Now for the hottest trending topic on socials. Stacey, are you a double cleanser?
Stacey / “Never thought I would be until we introduced Tailor Gel Cleanse. I used to use a gel cleanser pre-Tailor and my skin always felt dry and tight, but always clean (a nice feeling). When I switched to Oil Cleanse and saw how much change it made to my skin mainly making my skin not flaky and makeup sitting nice I thought I'd never go back. Even though I was nervous to introduce one back into my routine I do not regret it. My skin gets that lovely fresh and clean feeling but this time it is accompanied with soft and hydrated skin.”
Yes I was the same, but now I don’t look back! And you, Kaity?
Kaity / “Sometimes, time permitting! I personally love leaving a bit of Oil Cleanse on my skin as it's quite dry. But when I've been wearing a lot of sunscreen or makeup, double cleansing is a must.”
The life of a mum, always time pressured! Ok, my turn again…
Anna / “If I'm being honest, I’d never think I’d even know what that is. But now I’m a skincare girl, I now know, you know. If you love being clean, this one's for you. It just gives your skin a really good deep cleanse, making sure every spec of make up, dirt and oils are gone. The main driver for why I do this is because I wear make up, so it adds to the daily grime your skin endures.”
Isn’t that the best, learning new things and loving them? What about you, Kate?
Kate / “I sure am, I live by it! After a double cleanse my face feels so fresh and clean, but also not stripped, it’s nice and hydrated and soft.”
A hard core double cleanser, love it.
If you could tell someone something they wouldn't know about Gel Cleanse, what would it be?
Kate / “How fresh and truely clean your face feels after, without being stripped. When I was younger I used to use a pretty harsh face wash, and my skin feeling tight and dry was when I felt it was clean. However, with gel cleanse I still get that sense of the really cleansed face, without the dryness and tightness, it’s really a game changer.”
Yes, I agree. Can’t emphasise this enough. What do you have to say, Kaity?
Kaity / “It shares a hero active from Moisture - milk thistle ester. This gem is a natural alternative to silicone, so it makes your skin feel soft and lush while still letting your skin breathe.”
Oooh yes. Can’t beat a multi-purpose ingredient, I mean if it’s good at it’s function why change it. My turn…
Anna / “This is a good one, really making me think as I want to share something juicy. The ingredients. It's a demonstration of being multi-purpose, our hero ingredients Aloe Vera and Oat Protein do more for your skin, because they have multiple benefits - that actually work. And to me, this is what makes it like nothing else on the market.”
Can you tell I love the practice of being multi-purpose. Do you have something better, Stacey?
Stacey / “Its packaging! It has a twisting lid so you don't have to take the lid off and accidentally drop it (annoying!). It just twists to unlock, squeeze product out, then twist it back to lock. So easy!”
Ooh yes, simple and quick application is key. Because, who has the patience to fiddle around.
Ok, Stacey you’re up again. What's your favourite way to mix and match Gel Cleanse?
Stacey / “With Oil Cleanse of course! They are the best cleansers and they work great together and on their own!”
You won’t feel more clean and fresh skin, than with this cleanser duo. Can you beat this one, Kate?
Kate / “Well no they’re all amazing, but in my eyes my fav way to mix gel cleanse is with a bit of polish, it creates a really amazing, gentle facial exfoliator. It’s perfect for when I want a face exfoliation when I have fake tan on my face and don’t want to strip it all away.”
Oooh yes, that deep and I mean deep exfoliation - love when the pores get a deep clean! Kaity, you?
Kaity / ”I’d have to say Hydrate. It’s like a double dose of deep hydration for my skin. There’s nothing like it.”
Ooooh, isn’t it good when products can work together and further support your skin. My turn, and I have a different favourite…
Anna / “Before anything else, you have to be able to remove any excess product from your skin, and the only tool for this is our Tailor Towels. It just effortlessly and effectively wipes everything away and it's really gentle on the skin - so no irritations occur. It's as simple as that, really.”
I love how everyone is different, and Tailor’s range encourages this as it has multiple products to mix and match with - so it can fit your routine and skin type, how good.
Ok, let’s see the evidence now. Kaity, what changes have you noticed in your skin, since using Gel Cleanse?
Kaity / “Unlike some gel cleansers I've used in the past, it doesn't leave my skin feeling tight or stripped after using it - a big win for me.”
Yes, that is a huge win in itself - because as we know, most cleansers take, but don’t give back. My turn (again)...
Anna / “Well I’d thought you’d never ask. My skin is softer, cleaner and just fresh really. I can't say it any other way, you just have to try it - I mean who thought a good ol cleanser - the most basic product in your routine, could do all this. I bring you back to my multi-purpose point.”
Ok Stacey, have you had similar results to me?
Stacey / “Mostly the reduced redness in my skin. Being eczema prone and sensitive it's the one thing I am conscious of when I am going makeup free. I have noticed also reduced sensitivity to environmental exposure like from being warm inside to a cold windy outside, my skin would normally irritate and go red immediately.”
And it’s sensitive skin friendly, that’s impressive. Last up, Kate - have you noticed any changes?
Kate / “I’ve noticed my skin to be more calm, I have pretty sensitive skin and it often gets quite red in place after my full skincare routine. Gel cleanse has really helped to lessen any irritation and balance my skin before I move on to the next steps.”
This is so exciting, a wash-off product that instantly benefits your skin. Yes, it’s magic.
So there you have it, our Tailor Team’s best kept cleansing tips & aren’t they golden. Well, we think so. A product for everyone, tailored to you, ofc. Feel free to check out for yourself the star of the show, Gel Cleanse.
So where is the gap in our range? Because that’s the only reason we formulate a new product. Otherwise, that’s just not sustainable, is it? To kick start the process, we research product functionality, where it fits within the range, what our customers' feedback has been, and how it’s tailored. Deciding to introduce a second cleanser to the Tailor Range, coming off the success of our top selling cult-favourite Oil Cleanse, we thought it was only natural to create a wash-away cleanser. In staying true to a key brand message, tailored to you, we believed we needed to provide versatility to our customers, allowing them to use each cleanser individually or in combination, depending on their unique skincare needs and preferences. Now we have the product to fill this gap, we looked into the functionality of it, how it was going to be tailored to multiple skin types and skin concerns. This is where a thorough and in depth research stage is crucial.
The research phase of this project was quite a journey. We thoroughly explored existing cleansers on the market, dissecting what we liked and disliked about each one. This process allowed us to identify key ingredients that not only aligned with our product's functionality but also offered tangible benefits to the skin, even during brief contact. It was a fascinating and enlightening journey of discovery, and we're excited to bring the culmination of our findings to our customers with Tailor Gel Cleanse.
We tested them all to narrow down the right style of cleanser. It had to be gentle, a big no in our books is when a cleanser strips your skin’s natural acid mantle leaving it dry and sensitive. This meant we needed to ensure the surfactants we incorporated in this formula were not harsh on the skin, that journey led us to Cocamidopropyl Betaine. A natural gentle surfactant (offers a light foam) that is perfect for all skin types including sensitive skin.
When we conducted our research to select the ingredients for Tailor Gel Cleanse, we focused on those that would provide immediate benefits to your skin, even when contact time is limited. Let's take Niacinamide as an example, a renowned hero ingredient often found in cleansers. Niacinamide's true potential is unlocked when it's left on the skin, allowing it to work its magic. However, cleansers are wash-off products, making it less ideal for this purpose. Instead, if you're seeking the benefits of Niacinamide, our Tailor Hydrate product contains 4% Niacinamide. This makes it the perfect addition to your skincare routine, where it can be left on the skin to deliver the results you're looking for.
The first of two key ingredients we discovered that had immediate benefit with limited contact time was Aloe Vera, an ingredient we know helps ease sunburn, but it’s calming and soothing properties can translate in the skincare space, to calm and soothe redness and irritation, while also hydrating the skin. The second of the two key ingredients is Oat Protein, which aims to strengthen the skin’s outer barrier, retain skin moisture, reduce itchiness, and has anti-inflammatory properties. Another hero is green tea extract which visibly brightens skin, reduces hyperpigmentation and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to soothe and protect your skin. We have also included some hero Tailor ingredients found in the rest of our range, Glycerin (humectant) which binds water to the skin, leaving it hydrated and soft. As well as Milk Thistle Esther (natural alternative to silicone) to enhance skin barrier protection. The reason these ingredients have been chosen, is because with a gel cleanser we need to give back to the skin in the same process of removing daily build up.
There is no I in team, so not only do we need our hero ingredients to support our cleanser’s goal, but we need other key properties and ingredients to help turn this formulation into a gel-foam texture. Starting strong with a carrier, which is aqua (water) we then need functional ingredients e.g., humectants, emollients, skin-conditioning ingredients, because these act as a transmitter for the delivery of our hero ingredients. Finally, we have our stabilisers e.g., preservatives, chelating and texture agents, and these ensure our product stability, making sure the product remains at it’s best throughout its lifespan, no bacteria growing around here thanks.
We meticulously considered the percentage of natural ingredients when crafting Tailor Gel Cleanse, ultimately achieving a 96.6% natural composition, and here's why. During our extensive formulation process, we explored various natural percentage levels, always pushing for higher ratios. However, we encountered a challenge: as the natural content increased, the product's functionality suffered. It struggled to effectively remove makeup and left the skin feeling less clean and refreshed.
After numerous iterations and much back-and-forth, we honed in on the perfect, simplified formula that not only met our functionality goals but also ensured that every ingredient used delivered tangible benefits to your skin. We're proud to say that our product isn't about washing marketing fluff down the drain – it's formulated to provide your skin with real, noticeable benefits in the short time it’s on your skin, while maintaining a high level of natural ingredients.
Our gel formula effortlessly glides onto your skin, eliminating the need for immediate water usage, sparing you from those annoying drips down your arms. Plus, it's versatile! You can apply it to your skin, massage, and when you add water, it transforms into a foam for a thorough second cleanse. We believe in multi-purpose products that leave your skin feeling fresh, soft, and balanced, without that uncomfortable tightness often associated with a compromised acid mantle.
Not only do we live and breathe skin, we also live and breathe the environment, so it’s safe to say we’re pretty committed to doing our best to lend it a hand. It’s definitely a lot harder, but we choose the no cutting corner path, to deliver our products, in this case Gel Cleanse, in the form of sustainable and clean packaging. With this product’s gel consistency, we head to the drawing board to look into how the customer would use this product, ensuring it’s in line with our sustainability KPI’s. So, once we decided it was best dispensed from a tube, due to how the customer would be using it (most likely in the shower), it was obvious to go with our current tube packaging.
For our tubes we use PCR, post-consumer resin, plastic which comes from recycled milk bottles. We use 50%, this is the maximum before the plastic becomes too rigid for the customer to use (i.e you can’t even squeeze the tube). This is how we landed on 50% plus its kerbside recyclable. Sustainable inner packaging option, check.
It comes in Tailor’s compostable and recyclable cardboard box. This cardboard is sourced locally in Whakatane and is ‘well-managed forests’ certified, you can see this stamp at the bottom of your box. It isn’t printed with a plastic film coating, which most are btw, but it is printed with vegetable inks (It’s natural!) in Petone, Wellington which makes it able to be placed into your at-home compost or with your kerbside recycling. Our box supply chain is completely localised to NZ, cool right? (yes we’re bragging). Learn more about our box supply chain here.
Now how did we land on the bright green? Easy! We wanted the colour to represent how you use it and how it makes your skin feel. Cool, calm, fresh and a bit of fun. Plus it has to look cute next to Tailor Polish in the shower.
Our products undergo stability testing to ensure that they are shelf stable and to measure its shelf life. Here at Tailor we set out to achieve a 3 year shelf-life as a minimum. We use a combination of accelerated and real-time to determine this. Accelerated stability is when the product is exposed to high temperatures to speed the time along and is observed weekly for noticeable changes that could indicate the product is not stable. These physicochemical properties that we observe are changes in colour, PH, viscosity, odour. We use accelerated testing so that we can quickly determine if a formulation is stable and if not we can quickly review what ingredients are causing this and make adjustments. So, passing product stability is a time for celebration!
The primary reason to put our products through challenge testing is to determine whether the preservative system is holding across different stages of the products shelf life. Not only does the product need to be stable it also needs to be safe for customer use. In order for a water-based product to be safe it requires a preservative to be present. The preservative that we use in all our water-based products is a combination of a Dehydroacetic Acid (anti-fungal) and Benzyl Alcohol (anti-bacterial). These two combined create a strong system to stop the growth of bacteria, moulds or yeasts ensuring the product sits on shelf for an extended period of time and is still safe for use. But how do we test it?
We make a large sample of products for challenge testing. We send our product freshly made (time-zero) to the lab to be Challenge tested, this is where they inject our product with high levels of bacteria, moulds or yeast and observe it over a 28-day period to see if the preservative system works by reducing the count of the added microbes. This is our base report and the same sample is put into an oven in the lab to age and then is sent to be challenge tested under the same conditions to see if the aged sample works as well as it did when it was first made at time-zero. If it does, then that is a pass! A preservative will ensure microbes don’t make their way into a product, because we don’t want any living organisms living in our skincare thanks. But don’t worry, our preservative is safe and EcoCert for safe use in natural skincare.
We welcome consumer testing, because we need to actually make sure that this product is what our customers are looking for and because we want our skincare to actually work. We invite our family and friends to try this product and tell us, no filter required, about what they truly think and this feedback is crucial, because we don’t launch products that are less than their potential.
Once our formula has been finalised we send it to be dermatologically tested. The test was carried out with 30 subjects, aged 18 and above. All subjects recruited had (very) dry, normal, combination or oily skin, as well as some with sensitive skin. The compiled lab report for Tailor Gel Cleanse confirmed that 100% of all participants reported no relevant skin reactions were detected and was awarded with a dermatological rating of excellent including for sensitive skin.
Ok, we think it’s about time you two met. Meet Gel Cleanse, our newest fascination and latest addition to your routine, tailored to you (ofc). We created Tailor Gel Cleanse for those who crave convenience and a gentle yet effective cleansing experience.
]]>P.S. Tailor Gel Cleanse, because skincare should be simple and tailored to you.
No matter your skin type, you should be using a cleanser as it's important for your skin's health by removing daily build up. Cleansers are formulated to effectively remove makeup, dirt, oil and impurities from your skin. You want to find a cleanser that doesn't contain ingredients that strip your skin of its natural oils aka your skin’s acid mantle. As this can lead to a compromised barrier leaving your skin dull in appearance, exposed to irritants & bacteria, increased water loss and prone to redness. We’ve got your cleansing needs covered.
The difference is the cleansing ingredients. An oil cleanser uses nutritious oils to bind to dirty oils on the skin from makeup, SPF and daily build up. Oils work on the principle that like dissolves like and so it effortlessly removes makeup (even waterproof mascara) and replenishes the skin with clean fresh oils that are left on the skin. Cleansing with oils also helps balance natural oil production in your skin as it is not disrupting your skin’s PH or stripping the acid mantle. You can learn more about oil cleansers here. Gel cleansers on the other hand typically contain surfactants as the cleansing agent. Surfactants help break down and emulsify the oils and impurities on your skin. When you massage the gel cleanser onto your face, these surfactants surround and encapsulate the oil and impurities, allowing them to be easily lifted off the skin's surface. These also give the product its foam like appearance when combined with water around and mixed. It is important that the gel cleanser you select uses a gentle surfactant, anything too harsh will strip your skin, leave it tight and your barrier compromised. We have chosen to use Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAB), derived from coconut, as it is gentle and has excellent cleansing properties. It is also an amphoteric surfactant (ability to act either as an acid or a base), so it's less irritating to the skin.
We’re about to shed light on how ingredients in Gel Cleanse will supports your skin type, so listen up.
Gel Cleanse is formulated with Glycerin, a multi-purpose Tailor ingredient as it’s already used in Tailor Renew, Moisture, Awaken and Polish. This humectant ingredient will deeply cleanse your skin without stripping it, as well as hydrate your skin, leaving it soft. Therefore, this ingredient really supports dry and dehydrated skin types. Another ingredient lending a hand to this skin type is Oat Protein, which will enhance your skin’s protective barrier, reducing water loss. Dry and dehydrated skin requires moisture in order to be hydrated, in turn reducing dryness and dullness in your skin.
Gel Cleanse’s two new ingredients to the Tailor range, Aloe Vera and Oat Protein gently cleanse and calm your skin - this supports sensitive skin as it’s not going to be too harsh for your skin causing irritation, and will settle your skin. Yet, Milk Thistle Ester, a multi-purpose Tailor ingredient found in Moisture, Awaken and Illume, is a natural silicone, which will help enhance your skin barrier, making it stronger and less sensitive.
Gel Cleanse is formulated with new Green Tea Extract, this reduces sebum, an oily substance on your skin, which results in less blemishes, as this sebum won’t build up on your skin and clog pores, which leads to breakouts. And it’s organic, ofc.
If you’ve got normal skin, Gel Cleanse will help gently cleanse your skin to remove makeup and impurities, without compromising healthy barrier function. It has antioxidant ingredients, which will protect your skin from environmental stressors.
Combo skin, you’re a bit of this and a bit of that. Therefore, the combination of Gel Cleanse ingredients will synergistically work to deeply cleanse, hydrate and remove excess oil. This leaves your skin fresh and soft.
It really comes down to personal preference and your skin goals. Our recommendation is to incorporate both into your routine to reap their benefits. Tailor Oil Cleanse is a cult-favourite amongst our customers with Gel Cleanse, our newest product and quickly becoming a best-seller. The best thing about these products is they have been formulated to be tailored to you. Want to use gel cleanser in the morning and oil cleanser at night? Or oil cleanser in the morning and gel cleanser at night? Or gel cleanser in the morning and then oil cleanser and gel cleanser (again for a double cleanse) at night? Just oil cleanser or just gel cleanser. Go for it, it’s your choice and we encourage you to do it your way. So here we have it, the perfect mix and match moment - but we can’t forget to pair both with Tailor Towels, our zero-waste makeup cloths, which are super soft and gentle on your skin.
Turn off your phone and step away from your laptop! Instead of reaching for your phone to scroll through Facebook or Instagram before you lay your weary head down to rest, reach for a book instead. Because the backlit screens from our phones and tablets can interrupt the body's melanin production, a hormone which plays an essential role in helping you to sleep (so you don’t want to mess with it). Also reading a physical book or a story on an unlit eReader has been prescribed by general practitioners in Britain for those suffering from mild anxiety and depression. The act of laying in bed and reading, letting your stress melt away, can help prepare your body for the act of sleep without disrupting your melanin production. So, switch the screen for the book.
Does it feel like every night you crawl into bed tired and ready for sleep, yet this is the time when your brain wakes up? You start to analyze how your boss reacted to that presentation you spent hours on or stress over a bill that’s due. We know because it happens to us too! Practice sitting in silence for just 10 to 30 minutes before you’re ready to go to bed, it’s actually not that radical, you know. Put on a peaceful soundtrack, light a scented candle (lavender has been shown to ease insomnia) and breathe. You don’t have to force yourself to stay still for the full half hour, just aim to sit in your space, taking a deep breath in through your nose and then slowly releasing through your mouth. If your attention wanders don’t judge yourself for being a bad meditator, simply acknowledge this lapse and quietly bring attention back to your breath. This daily practice will help you quiet the mind and will set you up for a good night's sleep.
It’s not an urban legend that chamomile tea will lull you to sleep! This herb has been used to treat infections, skin rashes and digestive disorders, and it also helps reduce anxiety, lift moods and fights insomnia. The secret to “why” is because of chamomile contains an abundance of terpenoids a phytochemical (a type of active compound found in plants). Terpenoids bind to the benzodiazepine receptors in the brain (the type of receptor that are often stimulated by anti anxiety medication), which cause a relaxing and peaceful effect, in just one cup of tea! So turn on your kettle and boil a jug of water and indulge in a cup of chamomile tea or sleep infused hot chocolate to fuel your beauty sleep (mmm, can already picture my morning glow).
We’re always touting the miracle of yoga, it can be both a powerful workout to wake your system up in the morning or a restorative meditation to help calm the body at the end of a long day (because, you wouldn’t believe how much our bodies cop it). Stave off health issues by taking 20 minutes for yourself to practice a few gentle poses before bed. Taking time to decompress after a stressful day is always at the top of our to-do list, so make it a priority on yours, too.
A stressful day always shows on your face (as if we need to be worrying about that, right?). Massage away the built up tension and puffiness from a stressful day with help from our best seller, Tailor Oil Cleanse or Tailor Illume.
Simply start in the centre of your face and move your fingers outwards along the following areas:
The secret to beauty sleep is Melatonin, which can be found as a hero ingredient in Tailor Restore, a luxurious nurturing night balm (mmm, I can feel the day disappear from my skin). Topically applying a layer of Restore will trick your skin into triggering antioxidant behavior that would otherwise kick in during sleep, for skin repair and regeneration to fight UV stress.
How to use:
Recommendations:
References:
Altshul, S. (2011). Lavender - the sweet smell of sleep. Retrieved fromhttp://www.prevention.com/mind-body/natural-remedies/how-lavender-can-help-you-sleep
Goto, T., Takahashi, N., Hirai, S., & Kawada, T. (2010). Various Terpenoids Derived from Herbal and Dietary Plants Function as PPAR Modulators and Regulate Carbohydrate and Lipid Metabolism. Retrieved from http://www.hindawi.com/journals/ppar/2010/483958/
Hoff, V. (2015). These meditation exercises will help you fall asleep in minutes. Retrieved fromhttp://www.elle.com/beauty/health-fitness/tips/a27325/meditation-exercises-for-instant-sleep/
McCoy, M. (2015). 6 reasons reading before bed may be the healthiest thing you do today. Retrieved from http://www.sheknows.com/health-and-wellness/articles/1090795/reading-before-bed-good-for-you
Sanders, K. (2013). Chamomile tea eliminates insomnia and depression. Retrieved fromhttp://www.naturalhealth365.com/chamomile.html/
]]>The first stage in our box supply chain starts in Wellington with our in-house Graphic Designer, Kaity. She will get to the drawing board to create the design of our boxes, customising each box to each product. But we wouldn’t be Tailor without a list of musts to tick off. We need to think of functionality (box net and size). Our boxes are measured to fit each product size, to ensure the finished product doesn’t move around during transit causing breakages. As well as this, these carton measurements for each product reflects only the necessary amount of cardboard required to fit the size of our products and nothing more. We are proud of our enviro-conscious core value and want this to be reflected each step of the way. Another factor to consider on our list is to colour match the product colour to match the carton colour, to ensure it aligns. The last main factor to consider is the need to know info to include on our carton, which includes product info, brand info, and credentials. Because, we’re minimal and practical. You could call it a labour of love and care, right from the design, for our Tailors.
This stage is pretty low maintenance for us, as we don’t require many raw materials. The key raw material being our card for our boxes, a pretty crucial step. But lucky for us, our fabulous supplier Blue Star, based in Petone, Wellington, gave us a hand here. Up until Covid-19, we’d been outsourcing FSC card internationally (FSC stands for Forest Stewardship Council who sustainably manage forests). This was the most sustainable packaging option available to us. However, once Covid-19 hit, like a lot of other businesses, this supply chain was impacted resulting in extremely long lead-times and huge price increases mainly attributing to freight. At this time our Operations Manager, Stacey, reviewed all our supply chains and proactively reached out to existing and new suppliers to mitigate chances of delays that would mean we would have to go out of stock (not ideal). What did come out of this was due to NZ being cut off to large suppliers overseas, there began talk of the Whakatane Paper Mill reopening to service the demand by NZ suppliers. We stayed in the loop on this and as soon as we got the word, we were waiting to knock on their door for card stock. The quality wasn’t the same because the Whakatane Paper Mill only offered a 1 sided white board, with a natural brown on the other side (inside of the box), whereas the FSC was white on both sides (typical for cosmetic board). But for us, it was more important to source our card sustainably, rather than making sure it looked extra pretty. However, as the Whakatane Paper Mill has grown, they’ve opened their offerings in cardboard to provide this 2 sided white board, which we will be going forward with.
To be able to make this switch and localise our box supply chain was an absolute no brainer for us, I tell you, we couldn’t hit go on this packaging switch fast enough. This meant we could localise our full box supply chain to NZ, in turn reducing our carbon emissions. We didn't need to import the card internationally, and instead it remained local, traveling from Whakatane to Petone, Petone to Christchurch and Christchurch to Auckland. This was a huge win for Tailor’s enviro-conscious brand value.
Remember, we don’t do waste around here, so we are in the process of slowly phasing out our old FSC card which we still have, before production runs on the NZ supplied stock. This is why you might still be receiving the FSC card as the packaging for some of your Tailor products. Don’t worry, this card type has its credentials (long list of musts, remember). This new card is ‘well managed forest’ certified, which is a big Tailor tick for our enviro-conscious brand value. You can find both credentials on the bottom of the box.
This stage is based in Petone, Wellington with our supplier Blue Star. They source our new compostable and recyclable cardboard from the Whakatane Paper Mill, print our cardboard with vegetable inks (recyclable and compostable friendly, yes please) and get them cut down and ready to be made into boxes. Did you know our boxes aren’t coated with a plastic film? Most cosmetic boxes wouldn’t be able to say the same, so maybe keep an eye out here. Some brands will add a plastic film to ensure the box can’t be damaged easily (dents or marks). They will also make a claim that it can be recycled, when it actually can’t as its two materials combined. It also can be very tricky to tell, one way is tearing the box to see if there is separation of the film. Another quality check in our box supply chain is to ensure that colour match aligns with the product itself. When working with more than one supplier for each component the variation of colour occurs, so this step allows us to ensure the tube / bottle / jar matches its box as close as possible. This is Stacey’s job, and she is based in Wellington so can easily visit the factory in Petone to perform the quality check. Because, we go above and beyond to make sure you’re receiving only the best - aka this is exhibit A.
Once our boxes have been packaged with our bottles and tubes by our manufacturer in Christchurch, they are sent to our warehouse in Auckland where they are distributed to our online store customers and retailers. As our boxes are measured to fit our bottles and tubes perfectly, this ensures all products don’t move around during their journey to our online store and retailers, allowing for a smooth transit. The main reason Kaity designs our boxes with all the need to know info, is for anyone visiting in-store at one of our retailers, where they can be educated on the info they require about our products and our brand.
The last step of our box supply chain, our customer’s. This is a full circle moment as our customers purchase our products in their boxes. Once our customers are ready to dispose of our boxes, which have been tailored to their preferences. They can either choose whether they would like to recycle them with their other recycling, giving them a new lease of life and extending their life cycle, or if they have an at-home compost where they can tear their Tailor boxes and put them in to decompose. It’s our customer’s choice and we encourage them to do it their way.
I know what you’re about to say. We love to talk, which is true. But, I’m wrapping us up now. This milestone of being able to source our card sustainably by localising our box supply chain to NZ has only been able to happen because we’re agile. We are able to make decisions quickly and implement changes swiftly, as the market space grows and advances the offerings available. Sustainability, we’re on this journey, but haven’t arrived at this destination, and likely we never will - because there will always be more you can do here and we’ll be forever chasing this!
Now, if you want to see all of this for yourself, and the range of boxes. Visit our range here.
]]>Liquorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), is a plant that’s been unveiled to be a “skin brightening and depigmentation cosmetic ingredient”. How radical, a plant can help nurture our skin? And here’s why.
Ok, a bit of science chat. The root contains a compound known as glabridin, this inhibits the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin discolouration and uneven tone. Welcoming Licourice Root into your skincare routine, can support your skin to have a more radiant, even complexion, while acknowledging concerns like hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. “Licorice root extracts protect the skin against oxidative. It acts as antioxidant....Simple behaviour, yet so powerful.
With a modern world, comes with our skin being constantly exposed to environmental stressors (as if we need this on top of our personal stressors) that speed up the aging process. But it’s ok, our shining star Licourice Root will come to the rescue with its antioxidant properties, and help shield the skin from the unwanted damage caused by free radicals. “Licorice root extracts protect the skin against oxidative stress injuries." Because, with topical use of Liquorice Root infused skincare, your skin will be left with a more youthful, radiant complexion by protecting the skin's collagen and elastin (but this doesn’t suffice as sun protection, that’s sunblock’s role). "It displays skin depigmentation activity and is being incorporated in topical products intended specifically for that purpose.” It can say no more and do no more.
Liquorice Root is a hero ingredient in our new product, Tailor Restore, a luxuriously rich nurturing overnight balm (mmmm, sounds luxe). We chose this ingredient for our customers, as they are always at the forefront of what we do. They’ve been waiting and asking for a thick, luxurious and creamy night balm to add to their routine, with benefits that will nurture their uneven, aging and dry skin types. But, Tailor has a long list of requirements to check off and it’s not easy, some would say we’re high maintenance. This includes finding an ingredient that provides health focused benefits that support the product itself and how it’s used, where it’s made (distance to NZ) and the working conditions, making sure it’s vegan, cruelty free, and eco-conscious. So, coming across this ingredient sourced in New Zealand by Organic Botanics in our product development stage was like we’re *winning*. It is unequaled with it’s essential nutrients, skin brightening benefits, and “New Zealand’s native species have the advantage of growing in the country’s clean, pristine and nuclear-free waters which are infused with sub Antarctic streams rich in minerals.” This means we have a reduced carbon footprint, localised production, and being able to support a local supplier. It proves being high maintenance can work to your favour, but it doesn’t come easy. Overall, this ingredient represents a powerful quality of Tailor, to think outside the box and be resourceful to lead to an innovative solution.
Our range has been formulated to be mixed, matched and tailored to your skin (toot toot). Here is how we recommend Liquorice Root, aka Restore to be tailored to your routine:
Illume / Mixing Restore with Bakuchiol, aka Illume, together with their combined strong anti-aging properties will reduce fine lines, plump and refine skin, leading to a more youthful complexion. You would apply this as a last step in your nighttime routine.
Renew / Mixing Restore with Probiotic Lysate and Grape Seed Extract, aka Renew, together with their strong cell regeneration properties and ability to combat UV free radical damage, will strengthen skin, reduce fine lines and improve elasticity and firmness. You would apply this after your cleanser in your nighttime routine.
Hydrate / Mixing Restore with Hyaluronic Acid, aka Hydrate will together increase your skin’s elasticity, giving a more plump complexion. You would apply this after Renew in your nighttime routine.
P.S. This is not a dream, but it is your dream skin.
Recommendations
Resources
Organic Bioatices New Zealand (n.d.). OceanDerMX ® BALANCE & BRIGHTEN. https://organicbioactives.com/
Ciganović, P., Jakimiuk, K., Tomczyk, M., & Končić, M. Z. (2019). Glycerolic Licorice Extracts as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Extraction Optimization, Chemical Characterization, and Biological Activity. Antioxidants. https://doi.org/https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/8/10/445
]]>So Kate, how would you describe your relationship with sleep?
Kate / “I’ve always absolutely loved sleep and would always push waking up to the last minute! I used to really struggle to fall asleep at night but since I’ve fine tuned my daily routine and included a good amount of exercise each day I find I now sleep like a baby, lights out by 10pm!”
Exercise really helps, doesn’t it? What about you Stacey?
Stacey / “I value its importance in my health and wellbeing and I often find my cognitive abilities aren't as sharp if I have had a bad sleep the night before. That is why I am strict with my bed-time to ensure that I have enough sleep to be productive and the best version of myself. I’m asleep by 9:30pm and up at 6am with the occasional late night once a week! Balance is key, love the 80/20 rule haha.”
It's good when you know what works for you, what about you Kaity?
Kaity / “As a parent to a toddler, I never realised how essential sleep is (& how much I loved it!) until I stopped getting enough. On the plus side, I hardly ever have trouble falling asleep at night! As soon as my head hits the pillow, I'm out (for now...).”
How good is it when you can just hit the pillow! For me…
Anna / “It's great, I LOVE IT. There's just nothing better than hopping into bed at the end of a work day! It doesn't matter if it's noisy or silent, I can sleep, but I’m not a day sleeper. I really love my night time relaxation, but with work the next morning I’m asleep between 9:30-10:15pm and then up at 6:30am. Weekend sleep-ins are the best, but I ideally like to wake up by 8am.”
Well, you can say we’re a team of sleep lovers, because beauty sleep promotes healthy skin (thanks, Restore).
I’m going to kick us off with my sleep habits / rituals.
Anna “I have one sleep habit that is always on repeat, a fan. It's like my white noise, we had them going when I lived in Thailand due to the extreme heat and I got so used to the sound and the air, I've slept with it since. It's a surprise I don't have dry skin. My ritual before I sleep would be to make sure doors are shut and windows closed, make sure my room is clean, I can’t rest with a messy room, and then I need a glass of water next to my bed.”
Now a fan in Winter too, I know that’s a little bit crazy but I love it! Kate, what about you?
Kate / “I have to clean my room before I sleep too, even just a 1 minute clearing of the never ending pile of clothes off the floor, because I sleep much better in a cleaner space. I also have to have a clean face and my hair tied up or I won’t be able to fall asleep until I do! Other than that, just making sure I’ve got my perfect pillow set up and I’m good to go.”
Yes a clean space, is a clean mind! What about you Kaity?
Kaity / “I never know how much sleep I will get at night, or how many times I will be up with my babe, so I prioritise getting to bed nice and early - I try to be in bed winding down by 9pm. Before this, I always complete my nighttime skincare routine, make a cup of caffeine-free tea, and read my current book.”
Oh yes, a mother’s work is never done! And Stacey?
Stacey / “Sleep hygiene is super important to me and my partner. We like reading or listening to a podcast before bed to reduce our blue-light exposure to allow us to wind down. Having blackout curtains and a comfortable bed are also high on my list. Ritual wise, mine is super simple brushing my teeth, then doing my skincare routine which I finish off with Illume. The smell of Illume is so divine before bed and I swear it kicks me into rest mode.”
Ooh, so much inspiration for the ultimate night time routines, I’ll have to give them all a test drive - because who doesn’t love a night time routine that gives ‘it’ girl vibes.
Since introducing Restore into your routine, how has this night balm helped your skin type Kate, and what are the results you've noticed to your skin?
Kate / “My skin type has recently veered towards the dry side which was a big change for me as I typically have always had oily skin. Restore came at the perfect time, not only does it have this beautiful, calming scent which just makes me want to go to sleep but the feel of it on your skin is unmatched. You can really feel how nourishing it is and my skin just drinks it up, It’s completely taken away any dry/ flakey patches I had. I’ve noticed since using Restore my skin has a bouncier and very youthful feeling, I wake up in the morning and my skin still feels so soft and moisturised which I’m not used too, it’s a nice change!”
Wow, that’s amazing isn’t it! Stacey, what have you found with your skin type?
Stacey / “My skin type is a combo of dry and sensitive, plus turning 30 this year I have also been more aware of supportive ingredients for ageing. Since adding Restore into my routine 6 months ago, I can say my skin has never been happier than it is now, especially through winter which is when my skin is often at its worst with exposure to wind and sudden changes in temperatures. I am noticing my skin is less red, more bright and plump. It has really helped to deeply moisturise and nourish my skin. I have been using Tailor for 5 years and before starting my tailored routine I was using another suite of branded products and my skin was dry, flaky, sore, irritated. The change since introducing Tailor and the more change I see with the introduction of new products amazes me - I will never change my skincare...EVER!”
As you can tell we love Tailor Skincare, for me…
Anna / “I have a normal skin type with slightly uneven skin texture and my skin has just flourished with Restore. For my skin, it's about enhancing and maintaining my skin’s health to look and feel its best, but also clearing up the uneven skin texture. This balm leaves my skin super soft and deeply moisturised, with a clean feeling. It also tightens my skin leaving it plump and firm which I love, gives your skin a boost. This is important, as my skin’s health is becoming a priority for me.”
Isn’t it amazing how it’s worked for all these skin types. What about you Kaity?
Kaity / “I love the ritual of using Restore at night. It's super rich and creamy, so I take my time working it into my skin. It's like a mini massage every night. I have super dry, thirsty skin, so I noticed immediately how soft and moisturised it makes my skin feel.”
I’m speechless (and that’s rare), but it really says it all.
Last but not least, Kaity, what's your favourite product to mix and match Restore with and why - give us the inside scoop!
Kaity / “I always mix Restore with half a pump of Illume before applying. Like I said, I have dry skin so it loves extra oils at night. I like to use them mixed together as I find it absorbs really well into my skin this way.”
Ooh that would be so luxurious! What about you Kate, do you agree?
Kate / “I do, my favourite product to mix with Restore is also Illume, especially for combating the winter dry’s. The two go so well together and create such a luxurious feeling combination that feels like its really tackling my dry skin.”
Another Illume and Restore lover! A must-try, what about you Stacey?
Stacey / “This is hard because I have just loved inserting it into my existing night time routine. If I have to choose one though it would be Hydrate. Hydrate water content is really high compared to Restore which is a thicker balm consistency and so I really like layering Hydrate onto my skin first and then adding Restore on top.”
Who doesn’t love a hydrated and plump finish, it gives skin health. Lucky last, my mix & match combo…
Anna / “This would have to be Renew, because not only does this mix and match duo make me feel luxurious and rejuvenated, but because of how it leaves my skin feeling, which I love the feeling of, having a plump and firm complexion. It just makes my skin feel super healthy, clean, and full of the good stuff.”
So many options, something for everyone! To find your Restore match, take our mix and match quiz to see what’s best suited for your skin type.
]]>Before we kick start with a product, we need to make sure there is a gap in our range that needs to be filled, because we pride ourselves on having a concise range and not adding something in for the sake of it, because that’s just not sustainable, right? The start of the process consists of researching product functionality, where it fits within the range, what our customers feedback has been, and how it’s tailored. While Tailor Moisture protects and nourishes skin morning and night with its ultra-lightweight formula, this presented a gap for a heavier formula with higher % of oils and butters (aka overnight nurturing balm).
Now we know what is needed in the range, we then looked into the functionality of this product and how it would be tailored to multiple skin types and skin concerns. This is where we researched key ingredients and tested similar products in the skincare market to determine where there was a gap in their offering that we could fill.
From there we decide on a draft formulation with our cosmetic formulator, and review each ingredient to ensure we can achieve the highest % of natural ingredients without compromising on product functionality. The main ingredient we discovered which is relatively new to the skincare space, was Melatonin. While we know this supports sleep regulation and often comes in supplement form to ingest, we wanted to explore how it could support skin and what benefits you gain from it. Research shows that Melatonin assists the skin’s natural self-repair, regeneration and fights oxidative stress by turbo boosting the enzymes responsible in the natural repair processes in our skin that occur at night. Well will it support all skin types? Yes, as we’re all affected by oxidative stress (thanks, environmental stressors).
Other ingredients we wanted to include in this formulation were materials that deeply moisturise and hydrate the skin. We included existing Tailor ingredients that we use across our other products for these functions, such as glycerin, squalane, jojoba oil, grape seed oil, sunflower seed oil, and shea butter. We further researched for another material that could support this product function while offering other benefits. Introducing OceanDerMX Balance and Brighten an organic bioactive sourced in New Zealand. It is a botanical blend of New Zealand Native Red Seaweed, Mamaku black fern, gotu kola, and liquorice root. This combination of materials has been researched and clinically proven to diminish blemishes and hyperpigmentation in only 7 days, boost the skin with immediate and long-lasting hydration and promote an even complexion with a natural glow. Ok, but is this going to support all skin types? The answer is yes, it will particularly support ageing, dry skin, and uneven skin but it will support all skin types health as it maintains a more full complexion. It’s safe to say, once we locked eyes with these high quality ingredients with powerful properties, it was a done deal.
Not only do we need our hero ingredient to help our product support its goals, but we need other key properties and ingredients to help turn this formulation in our night balm texture. First, we need a carrier, which is aqua (water) as this makes up the bulk of the product. Second, we need functional ingredients e.g., humectants, emollients, skin-conditioning ingredients, because these act as a transmitter for the delivery of our hero ingredients! Third, we have structural ingredients e.g., thickening agents and emulsifiers, which give the product its creamy and thick texture, this is where that luxurious layering experience is amplified! Lastly, we have our stabilisers e.g., preservatives, chelating and texture agents, and these ensure our product stability as we talked about earlier, making sure the product remains at it’s best throughout its lifespan, no bacteria growing around here thanks.
Not only are we super passionate about your skin, we’re committed to the environment. There is no cutting the corners when it comes to our products being delivered in sustainable and clean packaging, as this is a non-negotiable for us.
Due to this product formulation and it being thick and buttery we needed to consider how the customer would use this product, and ensure it is in line with our sustainability KPI’s. After looking into a few options we landed on it being delivered in our iconic blue glass jar, which was chosen because of its ability to be recycled, and upcycled by our customers. It also has a scoop for application for ease of application and minimising using your fingers for hygiene reasons.
Restore’s glass jar will also come in our compostable and recyclable card box which we use within our product range already. This is printed with vegetable inks and not coated in a plastic film, making it able to be ripped into small pieces and added to your at home compost bin or just pop it in your kerbside recycling. Did you know that our box supply chain is all made local in New Zealand? Starting with the Whakatane Paper Mill, then down to our printers in Petone, Wellington. You will see on the bottom of the box the well-managed forest stamp.
Our products undergo stability testing to ensure that they are shelf stable and to measure its shelf life. Here at Tailor we set out to achieve a 3 year shelf-life as a minimum. We use a combination of accelerated and real-time to determine this. Accelerated stability is when the product is exposed to high temperatures to speed the time along and is observed weekly for noticeable changes that could indicate the product is not stable. These physicochemical properties that we observe are changes in colour, PH, viscosity, odour. We use accelerated testing so that we can quickly determine if a formulation is stable and if not we can quickly go back to the drawing board. So, passing product stability is a time for celebration!
The primary reason to put our products through challenge testing is to determine whether the preservative system is holding across different stages of the products shelf life. Not only does the product need to be stable it also needs to be safe for customer use. In order for a water-based product to be safe it requires a preservative to be present. The preservative that we use in all our water-based products is a combination of a Dehydroacetic Acid (anti-fungal) and Benzyl Alcohol (anti-bacterial). These two combined create a strong system to stop the growth of bacteria, moulds or yeasts ensuring the product sits on shelf for an extended period of time and is still safe for use. But how do we test it?
We make a large sample of products for challenge testing. We send our product freshly made (time-zero) to the lab to be Challenge tested, this is where they inject our product with high levels of bacteria, moulds or yeast and observe it over a 28-day period to see if the preservative system works by reducing the count of the added microbes. This is our base report and the same sample is put into an oven in the lab to age and then is sent to be challenge tested under the same conditions to see if the aged sample works as well as it did when it was first made at time-zero. If it does, then that is a pass! A preservative will ensure microbes don’t make their way into a product, because we don’t want any living organisms living in our skincare thanks. But don’t worry, our preservative is safe and EcoCert for safe use in natural skincare.
We welcome consumer testing, because we need to actually make sure this product will be loved by you and not just come in a pretty blue jar. Because, we want our skincare to actually work. We invite our family and friends to try this product and tell us, no filter required, about what they truly think and this feedback is crucial, because we don’t launch products that are less than the highest of quality. If it doesn’t pass our toughest critics, we go back to the drawing board. But if they do, well we’re ready for you to tailor it to your routine, aka launch time!
Once our formula has been finalised we send it to be dermatologically tested. The test was carried out with 30 subjects, aged 18 and above. All subjects recruited had (very) dry, normal, combination or oily skin, as well as some with sensitive skin. The compiled lab report for Tailor Restore confirmed that 100% of all participants reported no relevant skin reactions were detected and was awarded with a dermatological rating of excellent including for sensitive skin.
Let us introduce you to your latest obsession and newest addition to your routine, tailored to you (ofc), Tailor Restore. You can find and fall in love with Restore on our website, because you won’t regret it. P.S. it’ll restore your skin’s health overnight. Because, isn’t skin health the most important thing?
]]>Red seaweed is a type of marine algae that belongs to the plant kingdom (vegan, big tick from Tailor). It is one of the largest and most diverse groups of algae, with thousands of species found in oceans worldwide.
Recent years have seen the beauty industry revolutionise into natural and sustainable ingredients aka Red Seaweed (the type of change we like to see). With Red Seaweed’s remarkable properties and abundance of essential nutrients, it has emerged this ingredient as a game-changer in the world of skincare (of course, why do you think we’ve chosen it).
The most boast-worthy advantage about Red Seaweed in skincare is its “hydrating and plumping effect”, as well as its ability to retain moisture. It is a natural humectant, meaning it has the ability to attract and retain moisture. These benefits are “attributed to the various mix of versatile biomimetic sulphated gycosaminoglycans (sGAG). These natural biopolymers are known to form a fish-net like matrix that can help hold water molecules, while also acting as a structural scaffold to tighten the skin.” This characteristic will particularly support dehydrated skin. This will leave your skin feeling soft and well-nourished (now, that would be a dream).
Red Seaweed is packed with antioxidant properties aka liquid gold for your skin. "Marine seaweed species represent an important source of bioactive compounds possessing antioxidant activity." These are like our personal bodyguards, they neutralise harmful free radicals, because they’re responsible for causing premature aging and damaging to the skin. But don’t worry, if Red Seaweed is in your skincare routine, it’ll combat oxidative stress and achieve a youthful and radiant complexion (now that caught your eye, didn't it!).
Red seaweed contains phytonutrients (plant nutrients) that can inhibit melanin production (stimulated by UV damage) and reduce the appearance of dark spots. As a result, introducing Red Seaweed into your skincare routine will lead to a brighter and more even complexion with topical and long term use. "The extracts of red seaweed Asparagopsis armata, Gelidium corneum, Corallina officinalis had skin softness, whitening/lightening, and elasticity restoring anti-aging properties so they can be used as skincare products including creams..." This characteristic will benefit hyperpigmentation and an uneven skin tone.
We recently launched Tailor Restore, a luxuriously rich nurturing overnight balm, with hero ingredient Red Seaweed. However, as you can imagine, finding an ingredient that provides health focused benefits that support the product itself and how it’s used, where it’s made (distance to NZ) and the working conditions, making sure it’s vegan, cruelty free and eco-conscious, is not an easy checklist to tick off. Therefore, coming across this natural bioactive ingredient in the product development stage was like finding gold, at least that’s what we imagine it to feel like. It’s remarkable benefits and abundance of essential nutrients was just unmatched. On top of this, sourcing it through Organic Bioactives in New Zealand was very important as “New Zealand’s native species have the advantage of growing in the country’s clean, pristine and nuclear-free waters which are infused with sub Antarctic streams rich in minerals.” Other bonuses to this is, it further reduced our carbon footprint, localised production, and supported a local supplier. It really ticked Tailor’s long list of requirements (and that’s not easy, we’re high maintenance). Overall, this ingredient represents a powerful quality of Tailor, to think outside the box and be resourceful to lead to an innovative solution.
Our range has been formulated to be mixed, matched and tailored to your skin. Here is how we recommend Red Seaweed, aka Restore to be tailored to your routine:
Illume / Mixing Restore with Bakuchiol, aka Illume, together with their combined strong anti-aging properties will reduce fine lines, plump and refine skin, leading to a more youthful complexion. You would apply this as a last step in your nighttime routine.
Renew / Mixing Restore with Probiotic Lysate and Grape Seed Extract, aka Renew, together with their strong cell regeneration properties and ability to combat UV free radical damage, will strengthen skin, reduce fine lines and improve elasticity and firmness. You would apply this after your cleanser in your nighttime routine.
Hydrate / Mixing Restore with Hyaluronic Acid, aka Hydrate will together increase your skin’s elasticity, giving a more plump complexion. You would apply this after Renew in your nighttime routine.
Gold Dust / Mixing Restore with (1 pinch) Vitamin C, aka Gold Dust will together give the skin a brighter and lighter complexion. You would apply this after Hydrate, before Illume in your nighttime routine.
We’re very proud to showcase Red Seaweed as one of the innovative hero ingredients that has formulated Restore, utilising its health-focused benefits for our skin.
Recommendations:
References:
Organic Bioatices New Zealand (n.d.). OceanDerMX ® BALANCE & BRIGHTEN. https://organicbioactives.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/OceanDerMX_Balance-Brighten_May22.pdf
(n.d.). Rimu - New Zealand native Red Seaweed. Organic Bioactives New Zealand. https://organicbioactives.com/rimu-new-zealand-native-red-seaweed/#:~:text=Compared%20to%20the%20red%20seaweeds,Antarctic%20streams%20rich%20in%20minerals.
Maghraby, Y. R., Farag, M. A., Kontominas, M. G., Shakour, Z. T., & Ramadan, A. R. (2022). Nanoencapsulated Extract of a Red Seaweed (Rhodophyta) Species as a Promising Source of Natural Antioxidants. ACS Omega. https://doi.org/https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acsomega.1c05517
Ismail, M. M., Alotaibi, B. S., & EL-Sheekh, M. M. (2020). Therapeutic Uses of Red Macroalgae. Molecules. https://doi.org/https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/25/19/4411
]]>Melatonin is a naturally occurring hormone produced by the pineal gland. Due to the changes in our environment impacting the quality of our sleep (such as stress and blue light exposure), we often see melatonin in the form of a supplement to support sleep regulation. But what about in skincare? That’s where we come in (your skin educators). Let’s take a look into melatonin and how it can really benefit our skin.
Our bodies have two natural systems to stop UV damage, one being antioxidants. There's two important things to know: “melatonin stimulates antioxidant enzymes…”, and that “melatonin synthesis and secretion is enhanced by darkness and inhibited by light”. Basically, applying melatonin topically can trick your skin into triggering antioxidant behaviour that would otherwise kick in during sleep, where skin regeneration is naturally at its best. Research also shows that "repair of DNA-damaged skin cells, as a result of UV exposure, peaks at night.", making it the perfect time to add an antioxidant-boosting active such as melatonin to your routine. This is why we love melatonin - not only does it regulate our circadian rhythm, but also restores our skin’s health by regenerating and repairing overnight. Talk about multi-purpose!
Our skin is constantly exposed to stressors, including UV rays and stress, which cause the generation of free radicals. Free radicals are unstable molecules that can damage skin cells and accelerate the ageing process, leading to wrinkles, fine lines, and a dull complexion. Enter: antioxidants. Antioxidants bond with free radicals and stop them from causing harm.
Melatonin is a powerful antioxidant, and has even been called a “potent free radical scavenger”. Research shows that the “presence of melatonin in the skin is of paramount importance in its protection against damage caused by external factors…topical melatonin has been shown to improve the clinical signs of skin aging.” We love an overachiever!
Melatonin supports the skin's natural repair and regeneration processes. When applied to the skin, it enhances the skin's ability to recover from daily environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and pollution. This can lead to improved skin texture, more even skin tone and a brighter, more rejuvenated appearance. A study conducted showed that “topical melatonin formulations improved the hydration and tonicity of the aging skin, with a significant reduction in skin roughness and a clinical improvement in the appearance of wrinkles.”
Ok, we're sold. Does it come in a bucket size? Just kidding (not really).
When we researched the benefits of melatonin topically we knew we had to incorporate this into the Tailor range. PSA, you only require a small percentage of melatonin in your skincare to have effect. The recommended dosage for cosmetic use based on case studies is 0.0005%-0.0015%, so we made sure that our newest product contains the maximum amount. This is in additional to our (long-ish) list of requirements to check off (we’re high maintenance). This includes finding an ingredient supplier that provides scientific data that supports the ingredient benefits, where it’s made and the working conditions, making sure it’s vegan, cruelty free, and eco-conscious.
P.S. This is not a dream, but it is your dream skin.
Our range has been formulated to be mixed, matched and tailored to your skin. Here is how we recommend Melatonin, aka Tailor Restore to be tailored to your routine:
Renew / Mixing Restore with Probiotic Lysate and Grape Seed Extract, aka Renew, together with their strong cell regeneration properties and ability to combat UV free radical damage, will strengthen skin, reduce fine lines and improve elasticity and firmness. You would apply this after your cleanser in your nighttime routine. Shop the bundle.
Hydrate / Mixing Restore with Hyaluronic Acid, aka Hydrate will together increase your skin’s elasticity, giving a more plump complexion. You would apply this after Renew in your nighttime routine. Shop the bundle.
Illume / Mixing Restore with Bakuchiol, aka Illume, together with their combined strong pro-aging properties will reduce fine lines, plump and refine skin, leading to a more youthful complexion. You would apply this as a last step in your nighttime routine. Shop the bundle.
References:
Rusanova, I., Martínez-Ruiz, L., Florido, J., Rodríguez-Santana, C., Guerra-Librero, A., Acuña-Castroviejo, D., & Escames, G. (2019). Protective Effects of Melatonin on the Skin: Future Perspectives. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. https://doi.org/https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/20/19/4948
Tordjman, S., Chokron, S., Delorme, R., Charrier, A., Bellissant, E., Jaafari, N., & Fougerou, C. (2017). Melatonin: Pharmacology, Functions and Therapeutic Benefits. Current Neuropharmacology. https://doi.org/https://www.eurekaselect.com/article/80633
Ding, K., Wang, H., Xu , J., Li, T., Zhang, L., Ding, Y., Zhu, L., He, J., & Zhou, M. (2014). Melatonin stimulates antioxidant enzymes and reduces oxidative stress in experimental traumatic brain injury: The Nrf2–ARE signaling pathway as a potential mechanism. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 73, 1-11. https://doi.org/https://linkinghub.elsevier.com/retrieve/pii/S0891584914002032
Lyons, A. B., Moy, L., Moy, R., & Tung, R. (2019). Circadian Rhythm and the Skin: A Review of the Literature. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. https://doi.org/https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6777699/
]]>Skin cycling, also known as epidermal turnover or skin cell renewal, refers to the continuous skin cycle of cell growth, differentiation, and shedding (you're basically exercising without exercising). It is an essential process for maintaining healthy skin and promoting a youthful appearance, and you don’t even pay for it (wait, what?). The duration of a complete skin cycle can vary, but it generally takes around 28 to 40 days for a new skin cell to make its way to the surface and shed off - our skin cells are precious cargo!
Understanding this process can help us optimise our skincare routines (think Tailor), address specific concerns (think Tailor), and maintain healthy, radiant skin (think Tailor).
The skin cycle begins with the growth phase, during which new cells are generated in the basal layer of the epidermis. This layer contains stem cells that divide and differentiate into keratinocytes, which are the primary cells of the epidermis. As they mature, keratinocytes gradually move upward through the layers of the epidermis (you can almost feel that, right?).
During the differentiation phase, the newly formed keratinocytes undergo a transformation. They start to produce keratin, a fibrous protein that provides strength and structure to the skin (it sounds that much better knowing it’s free). Additionally, the keratinocytes acquire lipids (AKA fats) and other substances to form a protective barrier against external factors, because, precious cargo.
As the keratinocytes mature, they migrate towards the skin's surface, a process called desquamation. This movement is facilitated by cellular adhesion molecules and the action of enzymes that break down the connections between cells. During migration, the keratinocytes flatten and become tightly packed together. It really takes a village, that's for sure.
The shedding phase is the final step of the skin cycle - time to freshen up. The mature keratinocytes reach the outermost layer of the epidermis, known as the stratum corneum. At this point, they are no longer viable, so they’re off the roster. They shed from the skin's surface through the process of exfoliation. Shedding occurs naturally and is essential for maintaining a healthy skin barrier (yes, please) and promoting the growth of new, healthy cells (double yes).
This is where you come in. While the skin cycle is a natural process, various factors can affect its efficiency and balance (yes, we do have to actually do some work ourselves). Here are 5 tips to support your skin throughout its cycling journey:
You might be on the hunt for new skincare that is ‘non-comedogenic’, after your favourite skin guru told you that comedogenic ingredients are the cause of your breakouts. Unfortunately for you, this buzzword is an unregulated term that any brand can put on the product - without having to prove it won’t actually clog your pores and cause you to break out. As with all greenwashing marketing, it’s easy to see these positive buzzwords you’ve heard all about, and assume the product will be good for your skin. But beware - this is how you get fooled. Learn what comedogenic ingredients really mean for your skin, what to look out for and what to avoid.
In deciding whether a product is comedogenic or not, its likelihood to clog your pores and possibly cause acne is considered. They cause comedones, more commonly known as whitehead and blackheads (aka your unwanted visitors). These occur when hair follicles become blocked with excess oil (sebum), dead skin cells, and other impurities. Comedogenic substances have a higher tendency to contribute to this pore-clogging process (thanks, but no thanks), leading to blemishes.
On the flip side, non-comedogenic products are formulated with ingredients that are less likely to block pores. These products are specifically designed to allow the skin to breathe, reducing the risk of acne and promoting healthier skin (now we’re talking!).
The simple answer is no, but let’s break it down together. Comedogenicity is determined by the properties of the ingredients in skincare. Certain ingredients have a higher likelihood of clogging pores, while others are less likely to do so. However, it's important to note that comedogenicity can vary from person to person, as everyone's skin is unique. A substance that is comedogenic for one person may not be for another. Comedogenicity is typically measured on a scale from 0 to 5, with 0 being non-comedogenic and 5 being highly comedogenic. Sometimes you just have to go in with the best intentions (of the scale). Let’s take a look:
0 |
Non-comedogenic |
The substance is unlikely to clog pores |
1 |
Slightly comedogenic |
The substance has a low likelihood of clogging pores or causing breakouts, particularly for people with acne-prone or sensitive skin. |
2 |
Moderately comedogenic |
The substance has a moderate likelihood of clogging pores or breakouts, particularly for people with acne-prone or sensitive skin. |
3 |
Comedogenic |
The substance is likely to clog pores or cause breakouts for many people, especially those with oily or breakout-prone skin. |
4 |
Highly comedogenic |
The substance has a high likelihood of clogging pores or causing acne for most individuals, including those with non-breakout-prone skin. |
5 |
Extreme comedogenic |
The substance is highly likely to clog pores or cause acne breakouts even in individuals with non-breakout-prone skin. |
It’s important to note that the comedogenic scale is not an exact science, and individual reactions to specific ingredients can vary, but it's our best guide to go off to make an informed conclusion. Some people may experience breakouts from substances rated lower on the scale, while others may tolerate substances rated higher.
Don’t worry, Tailor is here to be transparent with our products' comedogenic rating. We don’t do any greenwash marketing around here.
Tailor Product |
Oils/Butters |
Table Ranking |
Sunflower Oil |
0 |
|
Rosehip Oil |
1 |
|
Shea Butter |
0 |
|
Jojoba Seed Oil |
2 |
|
Olive Squalane |
1 |
*Oil Cleanse: The only exception is coconut oil, which is 4 on the scale, as it is dense and is known to be pore-clogging if used as an emollient, for example in a moisturiser. Therefore, Oil Cleanse could be comedogenic if left on the skin, but the product is designed to be rinsed off and/or followed with a second cleanser as the first step in a cleansing routine. Double cleansing would significantly reduce the chances of having a comedogenic effect.
*Moisture: The only exception is cocoa butter, which is a 4 on the scale but used at <0.5%. Overall, Moisture contains oils with a low comedogenic rating, and contains less than 0.5% of butters with a moderate comedogenic rating.
If you have concerns or are unsure about specific ingredients or products for your skin here’s two recommendations:
Consult with a dermatologist
Conduct patch tests, the best place to do this is the inside of your upper arm, as this area of skin is the most sensitive. Therefore, it will help determine how your skin will react.
With the rise of clean beauty and increasing demand for natural ingredients, consumers are looking for innovative and effective solutions to address their skincare concerns. Preferably something that not only will protect the planet, but their wallet also. One direction that's set to take the industry by storm in 2023 is multi-purpose skincare. This approach to skincare involves multi-purpose products made to treat multiple skin concerns, in multiple ways, without needing to buy multiple bottles.
Lucky for you, this is what we are about at Tailor Skincare. And let’s be honest, who has time to deal with a multiple bottled skincare routine. We believe that multi-purpose skincare is the perfect solution for our modern-day lifestyles. Because it’s sustainable skincare, but also better value and a whole lot more affordable.
Oil Cleanse
Make up remover / Body oil / Beard oil / Hair oil / Shaving oil
Moisture
BB cream (mix with foundation) / Body lotion
Polish
Overnight spot treatment / Exfoliating scrub / Detox mask / Body exfoliation
Hydrate
Eye gel / Facial serum / Facial hydrator / Primer serum / Oil-free moisturiser
Renew
Probiotic facial serum / Primer serum
Awaken
Brightening eye cream / No make up concealer / Concealer (mix with foundation)
Gold Dust
Vitamin C treatment powder / Hair treatment for green hair (chlorine) / Body exfoliation
We’re excited to be at the forefront of this sustainable skincare direction. We encourage buying less. Because isn’t that the most sustainable way to shop...to not?
]]>Buy Less. Buy Tailor.
Question | Hi Katie, can you tell us a little bit about yourself and the work you do?
Answer | Hello, I’m the co-founder of Greenroots Juicery which my husband and I started back in 2014. We started sharing our cold pressed, organic juices, mylks and tonics at local Christchurch markets, and from there have gone on to sell New Zealand wide with home delivery via our online store. From the beginning I’ve been incredibly passionate about creating the juices, combining local and seasonal fruits, vegetables and herbs to bring a balanced alchemy of elixirs to market. Our test kitchen has looked like a chemist lab over the years with trying out multiple concoctions to get our loved juices today. In the last 8 years I’ve worked on the floor hand pressing, hand labeling, packaging and dispatching orders alongside working in customer service, product development, website development, marketing and every job you can imagine.
Today I am now 33, a Mother of my daughter Esme Juniper and have another child on the way due December 2022. Life looks a lot different now, yet the same passion remains and I help assist our team wherever I can.
Question | What inspired you to start your business?
Answer | We started Greenroots Juicery as a vessel to share the healing source of nature with our Organic Juice Cleanses and Juice Packs. My passion for sharing products that supported everyday wellness began from years of suffering from food related auto-immune diseases. I found that by switching to a predominantly organic plant based diet I could heal and even reverse ill-health. With so few authentic and healthy juices available in our community I realised
we had to spread our best secrets to help drive the health revolution.
Question | What are some of the things that you love about your business?
Answer | I love that our products are truly natural, organic and cruelty free. Everything we make is cold-pressed, predominantly organic and made locally with love in Otautahi Christchurch from where we ship New Zealand wide. I love how sustainability is at the core of everything we do at Greenroots. We buy from local New Zealand growers where our juices are pressed from the freshest seasonal produce. This both reduces our environmental impact and supports local communities. We have always poured our raw juice into 100% recyclable and reusable glass bottles. I love our goal to be 100% waste free by reusing and repurposing our produce pulp. Currently approximately 20% of our produce pulp is re-purposed for other health food products. Having a high fibre content, with minerals and vitamins still alive and intact, our raw organic pulp makes a great addition to many health food products. The remaining 80% of our produce pulp is used for compost, improving the soil of our land and livestock. I also love the positive feedback we receive from our customers. When I hear about transformational results and stories of people healing with our products from the inside out, that brings me so much joy!
Question | Can you tell us about the process of how you make your juices and what makes them different to other juices on the market?
Answer | Not all juices are made equal, which is why we’ve set out to create a tailored offering including the most authentic juices and organic cleanses. Greenroots is without a doubt one of the highest quality and nutritionally rich juices you can have. Our juice is 100% raw and cold-pressed. Our unique cold-pressing process extracts the living enzymes, vitamins, and minerals from fruits, vegetables and nuts to produce the smoothest, most delicious and healthy juice you’ll ever taste. More potent, dense in texture, with a vibrant taste, and greater health benefits for the most nutritious juice and cleanse you'll ever taste. Our juice is made from cold-pressing organic produce, bottled in glass and refrigerated to retain all its natural goodness, allowing the juice to be drunk over a number of days without losing integrity and fulfilling its nutritional purpose.
Question | What are some of the key health benefits that you think raw organic juices can give people?
Answer | Brighter eyes, clearer skin, more mental clarity and better everyday performance is just the beginning. If you crave all the ‘naughty stuff’ then this is a great way to kick-start healthier habits, get your glow on and generally feel lighter and brighter! 1 - 2 kgs of produce go in to make a 300ml bottle of juice which is bursting full of living enzymes, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants to help support inside-out radiance. If you’re not feeling your best self, we recommend cleansing for 3 days + for best results. Or if you haven’t tried our juices before, a 1 day cleanse is a great place to start or a juice pack to keep in your fridge as a daily pick-me-up.
Question | Can you describe your philosophy on skincare?
Answer | My skincare philosophy is super simple. I mostly take care of my skin through my intake of fresh, whole, vibrant plant foods, plenty of clean water, and sleep. I don’t wear any foundation so I focus on keeping my skin calm and hydrated. I do tend to get dry skin so I’m a huge fan of oils - I use coconut or sesame oil on my body after dry body brushing and showering. Whenever I feel my skin looks a bit dull I indulge in the Tailor range of products and undergo an organic juice cleanse.
Question | What skincare advice would you give to your 15-year-old self?
Answer | Let go of the pressure to have perfect blemish-free skin that you see in magazines, and understand that all skin is different and that’s okay. Freckles are beautiful, and so are wrinkles and sun spots. Ditch makeup and skincare products that are full of ingredients you can’t eat or pronounce, stick to natural ingredients and do your research on brands before investing. Choose natural, authentic and quality skincare products instead of hiding your skin with poor-quality foundations and makeup. Educate yourself on eating fresh, local, organic and seasonal produce to feel amazing and have glowing skin from the inside out.
]]>Sleep is critical for our overall health and well-being. Getting enough quality sleep can help protect our mental and physical health, boost our immune system, improve our mood and energy levels, and help us maintain a healthy weight. There are a few simple things we can do to make sure we get enough quality sleep each night:
When it comes to herbs, there are many different ways that they can be used to improve your overall health and wellness. Herbs can be used in teas, tinctures, oils, ointments, and more. They can be ingested or applied topically.
There are countless different herbs with countless different benefits. Some common benefits of herbs include: reducing inflammation, boosting immunity, aiding in digestion, improving circulation, and helping to balance hormones.
There are also specific herbs that can be used for specific purposes. For example, ginger is often used to help with nausea and vomiting; chamomile is often used as a relaxant; lavender is frequently used to help with sleep; peppermint is commonly used to help with headaches and migraines, and echinacea is often used at the first sign of a cold or flu.
No matter what your specific needs may be, there’s a herb (or several) out there that can help. Start exploring the world of herbs and see how they can help you on your journey to better health and wellness!
Exercise has countless benefits for our physical and mental health. It can help improve our mood, boost energy levels, and promote weight loss. However, for many of us, starting an exercise routine can be daunting. Here are a few tips to help you get started:
There are a few key things to remember when it comes to developing healthier habits: consistency is key, and baby steps lead to big changes. The above are some simple wellness habits you can start today that will make a big impact on your health down the road in 2023.
]]>Hi Tawhio! Can you introduce yourself (age, where you’re from, what you do)
Kia Ora e te whānau, my name is Tawhio Walford and I come from little old Gisborne on the East Coast of NZ. I am (almost) 22 and a māmā to my 5 month old daughter, Olive. I study a Bachelor of Nursing at Massey University, about to get back into my final year when I return from Maternity Leave!
How would you describe yourself in 3 emojis?
🤣😴👸🏽
We love the content that you make - can you tell us what is your favourite type of content to consume?
My favourite kind of content to consume is movies and TV series if that counts… I fill my days with endless Netflix and Neon at the moment while the weather is still abit up & down. Next favourite would shamelessly be tiktok, I’m a sucker for a good laugh.
How would you describe your skin type?
I have dry skin through and through. I have suffered from eczema most of my life on both my face and body!
What’s your skincare routine (day & night) ?
My morning skincare looks like: Renew, Awaken, Hydrate, and/or Illume, SPF.
My evening skincare looks like: Oil Cleanse, Renew, Hydrate, and/or Illume, Polish as a spot treatment if necessary and Gold Dust (with breaks). I converted to a complete Tailor Skincare routine when I was fresh postpartum!
What are your favourite beauty hacks?
I can’t say I know any ‘hacks’ off the top of my head but my tips would be:
What are some lifestyle hacks that have helped improve your skin?
Do you prefer yourself with Makeup or without it?
I don’t mind either, I love night times when I’m fresh out the shower, pjs on and skincare done. That’s definitely when I feel the best. But in terms of appearance, I prefer myself with a super light coverage base, like just Charlotte Tilbury flawless filter and a bronzer. But most days I’m in my pyjamas with no makeup cause Olive hardly lets me sleep.
What is the best beauty secret you have ever received? Who gave it to you?
WEAR SUNSCREEN! Sincerely from my mum. Wish I listened years ago
What are your top 3 favourite Tailor products and why?
Renew - it is sooo light and gentle. It doesn’t feel like a sticky serum, it’s the most refreshing thing ever and makes my skin feel seriously unreal. It gives your skin the best glow.
Illume - This quickly became my #1 favourite product, firstly it smells amazing. Not like artificial scent amazing but natural deliciousness lol. I always feel so clean after I pop this on, it has the most beautiful texture that is sooo gentle in my eczema and makes my skin feel more plump.
Gold Dust - This is like nothing I’ve ever tried before. It’s like a natural exfoliant as well as vitamin C treatment. It makes your skin tingle in a therapeutic way, I use this on both my face and my stretch marks that came in pregnancy/postpartum. It’s a game changer for me!
Which beauty advice would you give yourself at thirteen years old
WEAR SUNSCREEN!!
IG @tawhiowalford Tik Tok tawhiowalford
]]>Guest post by the team at Hello Period
It’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the negative things happening to our planet. The issues I personally find weighing on my mind on a daily basis are climate change and the on-going waste issues surrounding fast fashion and single use goods.
While there is undoubtedly awareness around these issues, it still feels like not a huge amount is being done about them. Sometimes it feels like we are just waiting for some clever person to come up with an instant fix - but it’s a big job and while miracles do happen, this one feels like a tough ask even for the most wizardy wizard.
No one is perfect. Consumer guilt is real - but that’s not a bad thing. Why? Because, if we are more mindful of what and how much we buy, we are less likely to go crazy and buy things we don’t need.
Here are six super simple things you can do to be kinder to our planet.
Some of my most prized possessions are things that are pre-loved. The quality and style of second hand furniture (especially from the 60s and 70s) is often better than what you can buy new anyway.
If you see something you like, don’t buy it immediately. Give yourself a week to think about. Would you use it? Would you wear it? Is it going to last?
We’re getting better at this. Less than 10 years ago we were all using single-use plastic bags at the supermarket. We’ve come a long way - let’s keep it up!
If you are putting dirty plastic bottles out for recycling, you might as well be putting them in the trash. It only takes a minute to clean that empty milk carton. Do it and know your recycling efforts are worth it.
If you have a period, reusable period products are a lot more planet-friendly than single use items like tampons and sanitary pads. If you ask us, they’re easier to use and more comfortable too. Menstrual cups, menstrual discs and period underwear are finally starting to become mainstream. Making the switch will save you money too. Hello Cups and Hello Discs will last five years and are the equivalent of over 2000 single use items. Did you know the first tampon even used is still somewhere on the planet? They might look all cotton-y and soft, but many contain bleaches and microplastics and take hundreds of years to break down in landfill.
The aisles of the supermarket that I find most horrific are personal care and cleaning products. Change habit buying and look for companies making innovative planet-friendly products. One of our absolute favs is Tailor Skincare. Tailor's range is formulated and manufactured locally, plus they're incorporating sustainable methods wherever possible in their production - all their products are packaged using glass, PCR plastic and FSC-certified card. Ethique make great solid shampoo bars allowing you to ditch shampoo bottles for good. Natural deodorant has come a long way too. When it comes to cleaning products - buy refill sachets. Why pay for a bench spray that is 95% water when you can get water from your tap? Reuse your current spray bottle and just top it up with concentrate and tap water. You’re saving money and packaging waste.
As I said, no one is perfect but small changes add up. Decide one area of your life to focus on and set yourself a challenge to do better and we will all benefit from your effort.
To find out more about Hello Period, head over to their website to discover their range of reusable menstrual products.
]]>Did you know that your skin is constantly losing its ability to hold onto water due to the ageing process? (..thanks DNA). To make matters worse this increases 10x fold during winter with cold weather and excessive heat-pump usage accelerating Transepidermal Water Loss (aka 'TEWL').
TEWL is the process of water passing from the dermis layer of skin to the epidermis layer and then evaporating from the skin. While this is a completely normal process that happens to all of us, certain factors can accelerate it resulting in a dehydrated, flaky and dull look (ugh, not what we want right?).
Factors that increase TEWL:
TEWL also significantly increases while we sleep, as its intimately tied to the body's 'circadian rhythm' aka body clock. As we sleep our body temperature drops and skin temperatures rise resulting in even more water evaporating from where we want it (in our skin!).
While there are factors outside of our control that accelerates TEWL, the good news is that there are things that we can do to put the brake on the process!
Here are our top tips to keep as much water in our skin so it stays plump and hydrated all year long!
Hack 1 - Moisturise with Active Ingredients
By now you're probably aware that we we're big fans of using Hyaluronic acid to combat dehydrated skin, which is why we put it in our favourite winter serum Hydrate! Hyaluronic Acid is considered the powerhouse ingredient for hydration due to its ability to hold onto 1000x its weight in water. When applied topically, hyaluronic acid sinks into the skin, attracts water and locks it in. A dream ingredient for thirsty skin!
Hack 2 - Ditch the Primer
Instead opt for your Hydrate serum, which naturally primes the skin whilst also locking in hydration throughout the day.Yes, primers can give an artificial glow to the skin, but a majority of primers on the market also contain nasty, toxic ingredients which end up damaging the skin long-term. Our Hydrate serum also contains Vitamin B3 which reduces redness & NZ botanical kowhai extract to fights bacteria - the perfect serum to use under your make-up. Simply apply 1-2 pumps to your face, allow the serum to dry and then apply make-up as normal. Voilà, dewy, hydrated skin
Hack 3 - Hydrate throughout the day
Ready to go make-up free throughout the week? ( ..go you!!) then it's time to get pumping throughout the day. Our skin isn't just thirsty in the morning and evening, its like the rest of our body - parched (& slightly cranky) by 3pm. We recommend applying 1-2 pumps of Hydrate every 3-4 hours especially if you have the heat pump or heater running.
Hack 4 - Super Soak
For those who need an extra dose of hydration try a Hydrate face mask at least 1x a week. Simply apply 5-6 x pumps of Hydrate to your face and neck, let it sit for 20 mins and then simply wipe the excess. Make sure to also lather your skin with Hydrate before you go to bed, as your skin will see a spike in water loss during the night. Good morning plump skin!
Hack 5 - Improve your Skin Barrier
It should be no surprise that a weakened skin barrier is a significant cause of excessive water evaporating from the skin (learn more about your skin barrier and how to support it here) so it's vital that alongside hydrating your skin, you are also supporting your skin barrier. Our Renew serum contains 3% vegan probiotic lysate that stimulates natural skin cell regeneration & strengthens the skin's protective barrier for enhanced resiliency. Try mixing Hydrate with our Renew serum for a nourished, strong & hydrated skin barrier! The winning combination in our books.
]]>
We’ve all been there before. Desperate to get the perfect, glowy skin we’ve always dreamed of, we rush down to our local beauty store, grab the latest scrub, peel or serum that's promised us suspiciously fast results, we open the bottle faster than we can say ‘HASHTAG-GLASS-SKIN”, use it religiously day and night for a few weeks and then bam - the bottle (and our wallets) are empty and now we have irritated, angry skin that's more sensitive than ever before. Sigh.
Now we don’t want to be the bearer of bad news, but the reason why your skin is seeing red (...quite literally) is because although your skin is resilient and designed to face an array of external elements, it can only put up with so much… Que red, flaky sensitive Sally.
If this sounds all too familiar , it's time to put down the at-home face peel, take a deep breath in, and read on because we’re going to teach you how to tame your sensitive Sally and give your skin barrier the love and attention it rightfully deserves.
What is the Skin Barrier?
The skin is a complicated yet cleverly sophisticated organ that is made up of several layers that all serve various functions. The outermost layer (aka epidermis) is more commonly known as the “skin barrier” and when it's in tip-top shape, it will work to reduce excess water loss from the skin, as well as protect us against environmental factors such as pollution, allergens, chemicals etc.
When its not in tip-top shape, you will start to notice:
1. Dehydrated, dry and/or flaky skin.Unfortunately for many people, there are a LOT of reasons that can cause the skin barrier to act up. As mentioned, one of the main reasons for skin barrier disruption can be found in common topline skincare products aimed to give rapid results (think AHAs, BHAs, retinoids, chemical peels, and harsh scrubs etc). Another common reason is extreme climate conditions, both hot and cold, which means that if you find yourself battling a cold, windy winter and then fanning yourself during a hot summer (especially in NZ where we are more exposed to excess UV) then you probably need to give your skin barrier some extra TLC. Some other causes include; excessive washing, hot showers, stress, a nutrient-light diet, a lack of sleep and smoking.
How to Repair your skin barrier
We’re going to be upfront - repairing your skin barrier is not an overnight process, and the recovery time will be different for everyone (The 2 main factors for this: 1. your skin type and 2. how much damage was done in the first place). Generally though, it can take 2 - 4 weeks till you see some pretty nifty #nofilter improvements! Here are our 3 tips to help you to repair your skin barrier and wave goodbye to red, sensitive skin for good!
Avoid Harsh Cleansers
First things first, it’s time to say no (...for now but probably should be forever) to any harsh soaps, cleansers and scrubs you may be regularly using that strip the skin of its natural oils and alter the slightly acidic pH of your skin. We want to keep as much of those natural oils in your skin as possible, so swap out your traditional cleanser for a gentle Oil Cleanser. Our plant-based Oil Cleanser is a cult-favourite and for good reason. It gently cleanses the skin and can even remove waterproof mascara whilst protecting and nourishing the skin at the same time - it's a win-win situation in our books!
Apply Probiotics Topically
Probiotics aren't just great in your yogurt they also can do wonders for your skin when applied topically! Your skin is covered with millions of good bacteria (which may sound weird and slightly gross) but these little battlers help keep your skin balanced and fight the bad bacteria that we face in our everyday life. By adding probiotics to your skin you will help reduce inflammation, increase resilience to environmental damage, and strengthen the skin barriers ability to fight aggressors such as UV, pollution and stress. Our favourite probiotic gem is our Renew serum which contains 3% vegan probiotic lysate. We have seen amazing results from our Tailor tribe who swear by this product.
Get in that Moisture (Naturally)
We’re big fans of plump hydrated skin but we’re pretty big on saying no to synthetic ingredients and fragrances! We recommend moisturising morning and night using clean moisturisers and serums. Ingredients like hyaluronic acid can deeply hydrate the skin and help boost water retention. Our Hydrate serum contains 2% hyaluronic acid and contains no hidden nasties so it will rapidly increase hydration without irritating the skin. We like to mix it in with Moisture - our light-weight moisturiser with plant oils including; grape seed, hazelnut & rosehip oil that helps create an invisible barrier to lock in moisture and protect the skin.
Did you know that the health of your skin is directly linked to your hormonal cycle?
You may notice that your skin sometimes looks better during certain parts of your monthly cycle. If you’ve been pregnant or entered perimenopause, you’ve likely had changes in your complexion during those times as well. Breakouts, blemishes, oily skin, and related symptoms are associated with our hormone levels.
We recently had a chat with Lisa Walker from BePure to discover how hormones can affect the skin and what we can do about it.
Hi Lisa! Can you explain why it's common to experience breakouts before the menstrual cycle?
As we lead into our monthly bleed, our hormones oestrogen and progesterone begin to decline. This drop in hormone levels can increase the amount of sebum the skin makes and thus lead to the development of a breakout.
How can hormones affect your skin positively?
Oestrogen promotes skin elasticity by stimulating the production of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid which helps the skin to stay plump and youthful.
Progesterone and testosterone both stimulate the production of sebum or the oil glands in the skin. When in balance, these hormones help to compress the look of pores and protect your skin and hair from moisture loss. Sebum may also have an antimicrobial or antioxidant role and aid in protecting the skin from damage.
Can you explain xenoestrogens that are commonly found in skincare products) and how they can impact your health?
The word xenoestrogen has Greek origins and when translated, literally means “foreign estrogen”. Xenoestrogens are also called “environmental hormones” or Endocrine Disrupting Compounds and are regarded by scientists as serious environmental hazards that have hormone disruptive effects on both wildlife and humans. Xenoestrogens are synthetic and chemical compounds that possess a molecular structure similar to that of oestrogen. Because of this, they are able to bind to oestrogen receptor sites and disrupt our endocrine system. Xenoestrogens like parabens and phthalates can be found in all types of personal care products which makes it important to know you are putting “on your body” - Your skin is an organ after all.
What is the importance of using natural skincare products on your overall health?
Your skin is an organ that needs nourishment - you wouldn’t coat your liver in chemicals, so why do it do your skin. When it comes to nourishment, nature gets it right every time. If your goal is radiant skin, nourish your body from within and topically by using skincare products that contain ingredients made by nature - not in a lab.
The chemicals and toxicants found in modern skincare do not provide our skin with nourishment and are, if anything, health detracting. Many of the chemicals synthetic compounds found in modern skincare products have been linked to infertility and hormonal imbalances - along with a whole host of other adverse health outcomes. When we look at health from a holistic view, we need to consider all aspects of wellbeing, including toxic exposure.
What are some simple daily things we can do to keep our hormones and skin happy?
Are you on a quest for healthy skin? Do you wonder how to get it, how to maintain it and what goes into the process?
We get a lot of questions about moisturising and how we can enhance our skin from the inside and out. It can be confusing when educating ourselves on our skin’s moisture, navigating the terminology and trying to understand the “why and how”. We’ve created Moisturiser 101 - our newest “micro-course” to help you better understand moisturisers and what your skin needs.
All cells need water to function properly. Water is used to keep cells plump and assists with the elimination of toxins. The skin’s oil production is a natural function which helps to keep your cells hydrated.
To show how these oils function to prevent dehydration, add a layer of oil to a glass of water and place it beside another glass of water without oil. The glass without the oil will lose significantly more water over the course of a week compared to the glass of water with the protective oily layer. When we compare this to your skin, you can then understand how the skin's natural sebum/oil protects not only our skin cells, but our entire system from dehydration.
Takeaways:
~Hydrated cells keep your skin looking plump and healthy
~Hydrated cells are better equipped to eliminate toxins and cellular waste
~Your skin’s natural oil or sebum is important because it protects your skin and entire system from dehydration
This depends on your skin. The skin is your body’s largest organ and has years of evolutionary development fine tuning its function. However, the skin’s natural processes can be thrown out of whack by dietary, environmental, age and lifestyle factors. When this happens it’s important to both identify the root cause and choose products which support the skin thus helping to gently balance these processes out.
For example, when you’re a teenager your skin can go berserk with oil production. Using products to gently remove the dirty build up (such as Polish) and then replenishing your skin with clean, nutritious lightweight oils and humectant materials to keep the skin’s barrier in tact and hydrated is important for this skin type.
If your skin is sensitive, it will benefit from moisturisers with nourishing ingredients, like Vitamin E and rosehip oil. These ingredients are used in Moisture (which is also dermatologically tested to be gentle).
If your skin is combination, or just looking a little dull and lackluster, you can support it by pumping up the water content with humectant materials. Use ingredients to rehydrate and brighten the skin like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide (found in Hydrate).
Takeaways:
~Choose products with natural ingredients which help to balance your skin’s natural function when it’s thrown out of whack by factors such as environment, age, lifestyle and your diet
~There are different ways moisturisers work and choosing the right one for your skin’s needs is vital
~The key to healthy skin is to choose products which will help keep your skin's barrier function intact
One way hydration can vary is through the skin’s rate of oil production. Skin which produces little to no oil will be more dehydrated on average. That’s because there’s little or no protective oily layer to prevent the evaporation of water from your skin and body’s cells. The skin’s oil production slows down as we age, which means that as we get older it’s important to support and supplement the skin’s natural oils with products containing natural ingredients.
Climate and environment are also key factors. When the weather cools down, your skin’s natural oil production also slows, leading to dry skin during the winter months, a reason why we often find ourselves reaching for the richer moisturising creams.
Diet and lifestyle also play a major role in the skin's hydration levels and oil production. Caffeinated and alcoholic drinks have a diuretic effect on the body’s system causing you to eliminate water and can result in dehydration if you’re not replenishing your system throughout the day. As a rule of thumb, we recommend drinking at least 2L of clean pure water every day and more if you’re having caffeinated drinks such as coffee, tea (green and black) or kombucha.
Studies have also shown that omega 3 essential fatty acid will help to protect your body’s cells from inflammation to keep them moisturised and hydrated (more on this later).
Takeaways:
~As we age our skin’s rate of oil production declines, increasing our need to support the skin with products containing natural ingredients
~During the cooler weather the skin’s oil production slows down and we also consume less water resulting in dehydration and dull skin
~Caffeinated and alcoholic drinks can result in dehydration so if you’re having caffeinated drinks make sure to drink at least 2L of clean pure water every day
~Omega 3 is an essential dietary component to keep your skin moisturised and prevent inflammation
Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is the measurement of water that moves from inside your body through the epidermal layer (skin) to the external environment. Measuring TEWL is a key way to assess the performance of our skin’s barrier which can also be compromised when we have eczema, burns, and other skin sensitivities which can be caused by the products we’re using. TEWL is also a useful measure in the skincare industry to test the efficacy of moisturising products and see how well they protect the skin from dehydration. There are a number of different types of moisturisers and although a high TEWL score is a positive attribute it does not always mean that the moisturising product is the best for your skin (more on this in the next section).
To make more sense of these materials mentioned above, let’s break them down into three categories and look at some examples of synthetic ingredients to avoid and natural materials you should look for when choosing your skincare.
Occlusive agents are ingredients that form a film on the skin to prevent water loss while keeping out nasties like allergens and irritants. Mineral oil is the most common synthetic occlusive ingredient and although it’s very good at reducing TEWL, there are a number of chemicals involved in manufacturing this ingredient. Jojoba oil is a great example of a natural occlusive agent, which is actually a wax rather than an oil and have properties almost identical to that of your skin's own natural oil. You can find in Tailor Renew and Moisture.
Humectants prevent the loss of water thereby retaining the skin’s natural hydration levels. Some compounds also have the ability to actively attract moisture. These materials are such great little workers because they help to draw in the water and keep your skin hydrated without overly oily materials. Look for hyaluronic acid, which is the most natural hydrophilic (water loving) molecule. It can hold up to 1000x its weight in water while creating a protective barrier, to both draw in and hang on to water. You can find this ultra-hydrating active in Hydrate.
Emollients have the quality of softening or soothing the skin. Fats and oils are classic examples of emollients. One of our favourite emollients is hemp seed oil, found in Illume, which feeds your skin with omega fatty acids to replenish and nourish plus strengthen its surface against moisture loss.
Fatty acids are key components which help to maintain the function of your skin cells, provide support for the cell membrane helping to prevent water loss and also ensure the transfer of nutrients into the cell and cellular waste out.
Omega 3 essential fatty acid is the kingpin to moisturise skin. It’s essential because your body can’t make it. Ann Yelmokas McDermott, PhD, a nutritionist at the Jean Mayer USDA Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging at Tufts University in Boston said, “These fatty acids are responsible for the health of the cell membrane, which is not only what acts as the barrier to things that are harmful, but also the passageway for nutrients to cross in and out and for waste products to get in and out of the cell.” Thus, once again explaining to us why fatty acids are so important.
Hyaluronic acid (or HA) is another key component that helps to keep the skin moisturised. One of its key functions in the skin is to keep the space outside of your cells hydrated and provide a “gooey” structure which helps carry nutrients into a cell and transport cellular waste away from the cells. Maintaining the extracellular space and providing an open, as well as hydrated, structure for the passage of nutrients are the main functions of HA in epidermis.
More money does not always equal more effective. Natural products tend to be more expensive than your synthetic supermarket brands. Investing in a good quality natural product is worth the money because natural ingredients contain vitamins, minerals and fatty acids which nourish the skin and help it to be healthy. Synthetic ingredients like petroleum jelly, also known as mineral oil (not made from beneficial minerals), which don't nourish the skin, simply provides a barrier protecting the skin from TEWL.
KEY TAKEAWAYS:
~Choose products which contain natural ingredients which help to balance the skin's natural processes and keep the its barrier function in tact
~You don't need to spend the earth on good quality skincare but paying a little more for natural is always best
~Drink at least 2L of clean pure water every day to keep your skin hydrated from the inside out
You might switch between describing your skin as dry and dehydrated, but did you know they're not the same thing?
It might not seem like a big deal, and it’s easy to think your skin is one when it’s really the other, but pinpointing helps to determine what ingredients and products to look out for to bring back plump, glowing skin. Before we get started on how to best nourish your skin, first things first; let’s determine, is your skin dry or dehydrated?
Dry skin lacks oils and is also a skin type. Very dry skin may look flaky, rough or cracked. Dry skin isn’t all bad though - you probably have small pores, and breakouts are few and far between.
Dry skin isn’t producing enough oil or sebum. An essential element to retain moisture. This oil production may be down to genetics, ageing, or a lack of essential fatty acids (EFAs) in your diet. EFA’s are key because our bodies can't make them, so they need to be consumed in your diet. They help to protect your skin cells against water loss (TEWL), which in turn prevents itchy, flaky skin and dehydration.
Dehydrated skin lacks water and is a skin condition so it can be remedied through skincare, diet and lifestyle changes. Your skin may be dehydrated but not dry because it's oily. Or it could be dry and dehydrated because it lacks both oil and water. If your skin is dehydrated, you’ll find your complexion is lack-lustre and dull or “tired” and lacking elasticity. The texture can look a little rough and may have flaky, dry patches (hence thinking you have dry skin!). Dehydration is caused by damage to the skin barrier. This damage can be caused by changes in temperature, harsh weather, stress, sun damage and lack of sleep. As mentioned above, your skin also might be losing hydration and moisture through a compromised epidermis. Now you’ve determined whether your skin is dry, dehydrated or both, let’s jump into the remedies…
As we mentioned, dry skin is lacking in oil, so you need to give back to your skin by feeding and nourishing it. The fatty acid composition of the skin can be significantly changed through diet, so this is a great place to start. Omega 3 and 6-rich foods are particularly beneficial to help prevent water loss. You can find them in foods such as flaxseeds, walnuts, soybeans, tofu, eggs and oily fish like salmon and tuna.
It’s key to pair dietary EFAs with topical, because up to 60% of dietary EFAs can be oxidised by the liver - meaning they never reach the skin! We want to tell you about one of our faves: Cannabis Sativa (hemp) seed oil. Rich in both omega 3 and 6, cannabis sativa seed oil is the ultimate skin food. It provides long-lasting moisture; with continuous use over time, it helps improve your skin's ability to retain moisture. This is one of the hero ingredients in Illume, which we've paired with squalane, a naturally-occurring moisturising component of the skin, to create nourishing serum to feed your skin.
Another fat we love for your skin - sunflower seed oil. We know it’s amazing, but science says so too - using it daily for two weeks results in more EFAs in your skin, balances TWEL and reduced scaliness. Sunflower seed oil is the base of Oil Cleanse, making it the ideal daily cleanser for dry skin (as well as being the best makeup remover - bye bye panda eyes!)
Upping your water intake is a great place to start, as we all know 8 glasses + of water a day is beneficial to all your organs, not just your largest! However, your skin is the last place to receive the water you drink, as your body prioritises other organs first. So, it’s key to pair it with hydrating water based serums, like Hydrate. Why Hydrate? Because of its two key ingredients...
Hyaluronic Acid is one of the most exciting ingredients for dehydrated skin. Why? Because it's a humectant; it actively draws in and retains water, binding to 1000x its weight in water. Hydrate is made with 2% hyaluronic acid, increasing the amount of water it can draw into your skin. In addition to hydrating, this also plumps your skin and reduces fine lines - win win!
Niacinamide is one of the latest buzz ingredients for a reason - actually, for a few; evidence shows topical niacinamide can increase your skin’s production of ceramides, which protect the skin and lock in moisture, plumping the skin and reducing fine lines. Paired with hyaluronic acid, this duo is a go-to for hydration.
References
Prottey C, Hartop PJ, Press M. Correction of the cutaneous manifestations of essential fatty acid deficiency in man by application of sunflower-seed oil to the skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1975;64(4):228-234. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12510667
Fathordoobady, F et al. Hemp ( Cannabis Sativa L.) Extract: Anti-Microbial Properties, Methods of Extraction, and Potential Oral Delivery
Callaway J, Schwab U, Harvima I, et al. Efficacy of dietary hempseed oil in patients with atopic dermatitis. J Dermatolog Treat. 2005;16(2):87-94. doi:10.1080/09546630510035832
Papakonstantinou, Eleni et al. “Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging.” Dermato-endocrinology vol. 4,3 (2012): 253-8. doi:10.4161/derm.21923
Levin, Jacquelyn, and Saira B Momin. “How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients?.” The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology vol. 3,2 (2010): 22-41.
Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T, Inoue S. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524-531. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2000.03705.x
]]>We're often asked if exfoliation is really necessary for healthy skin or if it's just a waste of time, since skin sheds itself anyway. There seems to be a lot of debate around the subject of exfoliation but to understand why it's good for your skin, we need to understand the different types of exfoliation and how they work for different skin types.
Exfoliation is the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skins surface.
New skin cells are created in the skins lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. Through the ageing process - especially after menopause - the natural process of skin shedding becomes uneven, which gives the skin a dry and rough texture. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to revel the newer skin beneath. This removal of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps the skin clean, improves texture and tone and helps prevent acne breakouts.
Exfoliating should always be done after cleansing and always be followed by a moisturiser. Exfoliation is not just for women; when men exfoliate their face it exposes the hair follicle and allows for a better shave.
The mechanical exfoliation process involves scrubbing the skin with something abrasive - this is what you can feel buffing away at your skin. It’s important to use gentle mechanical exfoliants like pumice powder or clay as harsh materials like apricot kernel can scratch and damage your skin, leading to dry and sensitive skin.
Mechanical exfoliation is great for thick, congested, combination, oily, dry or acne prone skin. People with sensitive skin can benefit from mechanical exfoliation but only using a very gentle hand. Tailor Polish is a great gentle mechanical exfoliant.
Chemical exfoliators are used mainly for the treatment of acne/oily skin. Chemical exfoliators work by breaking down the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Some chemical exfoliating scrubs contain fruit enzymes, baking soda, salicylic acid or glycolic acid. Tailor Polish contains natural salicylic acid to provide a gentle level of chemical exfoliation which helps to brighten and decongest dull flaky skin.
Gentle chemical exfoliators such as salicylic acid are great for the treatment of oily, congested or flaky skin. Some chemical exfoliator treatments are very strong and cause many layers of skin to peel off to revel the newer, smoother and less wrinkled skin beneath. There are many different types of chemical peels, and I recommend you tread carefully; the deep chemical peels can lead to complications such as scarring, photosensitivity, redness and textural changes.
If your skin is dry, oily, acne prone, uneven, prone to redness, congested, flaky or just lacking a healthy glow exfoliating 2-4 times per week using a gentle mechanical and chemical exfoliator will improve your skins appearance and texture. Exfoliants prep the skin to also allow your serums and moisturisers to penetrate deeper into the skin to keep your skin hydrated, smooth and protected.
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Our bodies have a unique language, giving us subtle signs and symptoms that we might need a little extra TLC or support.
We often can tell when we are deficient in a particular nutrient through reading obvious signs that are appearing on our skin, nails and tongue, but we can also evaluate how we sleep and our mood for signs of mineral and vitamin deficiencies.
Not getting enough vitamins and minerals can have long term impacts on our health. As a naturopath and nutritionist, when I meet with a client I am looking at signs and symptoms that can help me gauge a whole health picture. Once you really start to listen to your body, you and your naturopath will be able to figure out what it needs. Often these signs and symptoms are missed but here are some that can help you understand your body a little more.
Vitamin A
Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin. It supports our body’s immune function, vision, skin health and also reproduction.
Signs of Deficiency: Night-blindness, dry eyes, dry skin and hair, red or white acne like bumps on cheeks, arms, thighs and buttocks, recurring conjunctivitis, acne or ridges on nails.
Foods High in Vitamin A: Apricots, Cantaloupe, Sweet Potato, Carrot, dark green vegetables (such as Broccoli, Spinach, Lettuce and Kale).
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is an antioxidant used to fight free radicals; Vitamin C is also useful when fighting infections and can also help with the absorption of Iron from our foods.
Signs of Deficiency: Dry skin, coarse or splitting hair, poor gum health, poor wound healing, poor immunity, muscle weakness and fatigue.
Foods high in Vitamin C: Citrus fruit (such as Orange, Lemon, Lime and Grapefruit) red and yellow Capsicum, Guava, Kiwifruit, dark green leafy vegetables (such as Broccoli, Lettuce, Spinach and Kale) Berries, Cabbage, Brussel Sprouts, Tomatoes.
Vitamin D
Vitamin D plays a role in immune function and promotes bone growth. It is estimated that around one billion people worldwide are deficient in Vitamin D, so it’s a very common deficiency. However, getting your daily dose of Vitamin D is easy; just spend some time outside in the sun. Perhaps you could go for a walk at lunch time. Vitamin D is converted into a form that your body can use by your gut bacteria. If your gut is unhealthy, it won’t be able to effectively process Vitamin D.
Signs of Deficiency : Aching bones, fatigue, low bone mineral density, osteoporosis, and muscle weakness.
Foods High in Vitamin D: Fatty fish (such as Tuna, Mackerel, Sardines, Salmon and Trout) liver and other organ meats, eggs, Mushrooms (that have been exposed to sunlight) and cheese.
Vitamin E
Vitamin is an antioxidant that protects the body's cells from damage, muscle weakness and neurological issues. A deficiency in Vitamin E is likely to be caused by an abnormality in how you absorb dietary fat or your metabolism rather than not eating foods rich in Vitamin E.
Signs of Deficiency : Skin problems such as breakouts, fertility issues, brain function abnormalities.
Foods high In Vitamin E: Dark leafy greens, nuts and seeds, Avocado, shellfish, plant-based vegetable oils and Kiwifruit.
Vitamin B12
This vitamin plays a key role in the normal brain function and nervous system, as well as the formation of red blood cells. It is important for energy, and is also vital in producing the mood- boosting neurotransmitter serotonin.
Signs of deficiency: Numbness and tingling in hands, legs or feet, balance problems, anemia, swollen or inflamed tongue, jaundice, weakness, fatigue, cognitive difficulties or memory loss.
Foods high in Vitamin B12: Beef, liver, Lamb, poultry, shellfish, oily fish, low fat dairy cheese, eggs, and fortified soy products.
Other B Vitamins
Other B vitamins include B1, B2, B3, B5, B6. B7 and folic acid. Due to its role in brain development and function, folic acid requirements jump substantially during pregnancy.
Signs of deficiency: Problems with vision, fatigue, adrenal insufficiency, edema, athletes' foot, pale skin and dandruff.
Foods high in Folic acid: Dark leafy green vegetables, legumes, whole grains, orange, banana, fortified products such as cereals, fruit juices, and most breads.
Essential Fatty Acids
Omega 3 fatty acids play a crucial role in brain function, as well as normal growth and development.
Signs of Deficiency: Dry skin, itchy skin, scaly or flaky skin, lifeless hair, cracking or peeling of fingertips or skin around your nails, dry eyes, poor wound healing, lowered immunity, and joint pain.
Foods high in Omega 3s: Oily fish (especially cold water fish), eggs (yolk), flaxseeds, chia seeds, and walnuts.
As you can see there is so much we can do through our nutritional choices, but it's also important to get the other basics right and make sure we are getting enough sleep, and managing our stress levels. Always seek help from your GP if you have any further concerns.