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Moisturiser 101

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Tailor Babe with flower crown and water splashes.Are you on a quest for healthy skin?

Do you wonder how to get it, how to maintain it and what goes into the process?

Here at Tailor HQ we get a lot of questions about moisturising and how we can enhance our skin from the inside and out. It can be confusing when educating ourselves on our skin’s moisture, navigating the terminology and trying to understand the “why and how,” so we’ve created Moisturiser 101 - our newest “micro-course” (with no pop quiz at the end, we promise).

Why does skin have moisture?

All cells need water to function properly. Water is used to keep cells plump and assists with the elimination of toxins. The skin’s oil production is a natural function which helps to keep your cells hydrated. To show how these oils function to prevent dehydration, add a layer of oil to a glass of water and place it beside another glass of water without oil. The glass without the oil will lose significantly more water over the course of a week compared to the glass of water with the protective oily layer. When we compare this to your skin, you can then understand how the skin's natural sebum/oil protects not only our skin cells, but our entire system from dehydration.

To sum up:

  • Hydrated cells keep your skin looking plump and healthy

  • They’re also better equipped to eliminate toxins and cellular waste

  • Your skin’s natural oil or sebum is important because it protects your skin and entire system from dehydration.

Is this sufficient or do we need to supplement this with moisturiser?

This depends on your skin. The skin is your body’s largest organ and has years of evolutionary development fine tuning its function, however the skin’s natural processes can be thrown out of whack by dietary, environmental, age and lifestyle factors. When this happens it’s important to both identify the root cause and choose products which support the skin thus helping to gently balance these processes out. For example, when you’re a teenager your skin can go berserk with oil production. Using products to gently remove the dirty build up and then replenishing your skin with clean, nutritious lightweight oils and humectant materials to keep the skin’s barrier in tact and hydrated is important for this skin type. If your skin is dry, sensitive and flaky, then your skin will benefit from moisturisers that contain probiotic lysate, such as Your Blend Moisture with extract 6.  If your skin is combination, or just looking a little dull and lack luster, you can support it by pumping up the water content with humectant materials. Use ingredients to rehydrate the skin like vitamin b5 and coconut glycerin (found in Tailor Hydrate).

To sum up:

  • Choose products with natural ingredients which help to balance your skin’s natural function when it’s thrown out of whack by factors such as environment, age, lifestyle and your diet.

  • There are different ways moisturisers work and choosing the right one for your skin’s needs is important.

  • The key to healthy skin is to choose products which will help keep your skin's barrier function intact.

What factors affect your skin’s hydration level?

One way hydration can vary is through the skin’s rate of oil production. Skin which produces little to no oil will be more dehydrated on average. That’s because there’s little or no protective oily layer to prevent the evaporation of water from your skin and body’s cells. The skin’s oil production slows down as we age which means that as we get older it’s important to support and supplement the skin’s natural oils with products containing natural ingredients. Climate and environment are also key factors. When the weather cools down, your skin’s natural oil production also slows, leading to dry skin during the winter months, a reason why we often find ourselves reaching for the richer moisturising creams. Diet and lifestyle also play a major role in the skin's hydration levels and oil production. Caffeinated and alcoholic drinks have a diuretic effect on the body’s system causing you to eliminate water and can result in dehydration if you’re not replenishing your system throughout the day. As a rule of thumb, we recommend drinking at least 2L of clean pure water every day and more if you’re having caffeinated drinks such as coffee, tea (green and black) or kombucha. Studies have also shown that omega 3 essential fatty acid will help to protect your body’s cells from inflammation to keep them moisturised and hydrated (more on this later).

To sum up:

  • As we age our skin’s rate of oil production declines, increasing our need to support the skin with products containing natural ingredients.

  • During the cooler weather the skin’s oil production slows down and we also consume less water resulting in dehydration and dull skin.

  • Caffeinated and alcoholic drinks can result in dehydration so if you’re having caffeinated drinks such as coffee, tea (green and black) or kombucha and alcohol make sure to drink at least 2L of clean pure water every day.

  • Omega 3 is an essential dietary component to keep your skin moisturised and prevent inflammation.

How can we measure the hydration of skin?

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is the measurement of water that moves from inside your body through the epidermal layer (skin) to the external environment. Measuring TEWL is a key way to assess the performance of our skin’s barrier which can also be compromised when we have dry skin, eczema, burns, and other skin sensitivities which can be caused by the products we’re using. TEWL is also a useful measure in the skincare industry to test the efficacy of moisturising products and see how well they protect the skin from dehydration. There are a number of different types of moisturisers and although a high TEWL score is a positive attribute it does not always mean that the moisturising product is the best for your skin (more on this in the next section).

How do moisturisers work?

To make more sense of these materials mentioned above, let’s break them down into three categories and look at some examples of synthetic ingredients to avoid and natural materials you should look for when choosing your skincare.

  • Occlusive agents are ingredients that form a film on the skin to prevent water loss and act as a barrier function. Mineral oil is the most common synthetic occlusive ingredient and although it’s very good at reducing TEWL, there are a number of chemicals involved in manufacturing this ingredient (find out more here). Beeswax is a classic example of a natural occlusive. Occlusive products are great for extremely dry skin commonly found on your heels, elbows and lips, but may not be the best to use on skin which is prone to breakouts because they can prevent the skin from releasing its natural oil leading to blocked pores.

  • Humectants prevent the loss of water thereby retaining the skin’s natural hydration levels. Some compounds also have the ability to actively attract moisture. These materials are such great little workers because they help to draw in the water and keep your skin hydrated without overly oily materials. Look for vitamin b5 and glycerine, but when it comes to glycerine be aware that it can be derived from palm products so it’s always good to either look for a sustainable source or choose coconut glycerine. You’ll find coconut glycerine and vitamin b5 in our Tailor Hydrate.

  • Emollients have the quality of softening or soothing the skin. Fats and oils are classic examples of emollients. Some of these emollients also have occlusive properties like jojoba which is actually a wax rather than an oil and have properties almost identical to that of your skin's own natural oil.  You’ll find Jojoba in our Tailor Your Blend Moisture.

Are there specific components that keep skin moist?

Fatty acids are key components which help to maintain the function of your skin cells, provide support for the cell membrane helping to prevent water loss and also ensure the transfer of nutrients into the cell and cellular waste out.

Omega 3 essential fatty acid is the kingpin to moisturise skin. It’s essential because your body can’t make it. In an article found on Web MD, Ann Yelmokas McDermott, PhD, a nutritionist at the Jean Mayer USDA Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging at Tufts University in Boston said, “These fatty acids are responsible for the health of the cell membrane, which is not only what acts as the barrier to things that are harmful, but also the passageway for nutrients to cross in and out and for waste products to get in and out of the cell.” Thus, once again explaining to us why fatty acids are so important.

Hyaluronic acid (or HA) is another key component that helps to keep the skin moisturised. One of its key functions in the skin is to keep the space outside of your cells hydrated and provide a “gooey” structure which helps carry nutrients into a cell and transport cellular waste away from the cells. Maintaining the extracellular space and providing an open, as well as hydrated, structure for the passage of nutrients are the main functions of HA in epidermis.

Tailor Babe, feeling fancy with pears.

Consumer choices + more money = more effective?

More money does not always equal more effective. Natural products tend to be more expensive than your synthetic supermarket brands. Investing in a good quality natural product is worth the money because natural ingredients contain vitamins, minerals and fatty acids which nourish the skin and help it to be healthy. Synthetic ingredients like petroleum jelly, also known as mineral oil (not made from beneficial minerals), which don't nourish the skin, simply provides a barrier protecting the skin from TEWL.

 Tailor Skincare’s advice for consumers:

  • Choose products which contain natural ingredients which help to balance the skin's natural processes and keep the its barrier function in tact.

  • You don't need to spend the earth on good quality skincare but paying a little more for natural is always best.

  • Drink at least 2L of clean pure water every day to keep your skin hydrated from the inside out. 

Need help with yBeautiful Photo of Your Blend Moisture with flowersour skin? Start your free skin care consultation right here, just click on the messenger icon at the bottom right of your screen.